Uganda (Bwindi) -- January 14, 2011

The entrance to Buhoma Community Restcamp showing the reception area which wasn't actually in operation at the time that we arrived (a bit later than guests usually arrive).

There are five bandas like this and a few permanent safari tents as well as a hostel/dormitory building.

These lodgings are owned and operated by the community closest to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park. When emphasis began being put on research and tourism with gorillas in the early 1990's, the community decided they should take advantage of the possibility for employment/income for its residents. Training was provided, and the community runs the facility.

It’s 9:40 p.m. on Friday, and I’m sitting on the bed in my tent, and I’m EXHAUSTED. We left Entebbe this morning at 7:40 in grayness and light rain which continued on and off throughout the day, although there was sunshine along the way as well. We arrived here about 8 p.m., over 12 hours on the road. Taking out the coffee and lunch breaks, it still was well over 10 hours of actual driving time. Although I was just a passenger and dozed through parts of the trip, it was still tiring. The condition of the roads range from “not bad” to “indescribably awful,” with more of the latter than the former. And portions of the “real” highway were under construction, presenting another set of driving problems. Driving through a large town (learned there is only one city in Uganda – Kampala), half the road was being resurfaced, requiring traffic to alternate and huge back-ups – as well as gridlock and a lot of independent driving techniques, especially motorcycles which pretty much drove wherever they wanted.

When I wasn’t sleeping and Sam, my guide, wasn’t concentrating totally on driving, we had some interesting conversations. We talked a bit about politics and the several wars which recently took place in Uganda. It’s Sam’s opinion that there won’t be more wars in the immediate future; people are just too tired to support any rebellions. I also learned that Sam was instrumental in starting the organization of tour guides in Uganda and is currently the president of the 300-member group. They work to increase professionalism among the guides and now have a government-recognized certification program. It helps to increase the quality of the guides – and also the pay they can command from the tour companies. Seeing the skill needed to drive on these roads, I believe training is essential. Sam reads the road the way a sailor reads the waves, moving back and forth and shifting appropriately in order to create the best ride possible. Ugandans officially drive on the left, as the British do, but really take whatever part of the road is in the best condition.

A bit more complaining (and to get it off my chest), the late arrival meant it was dark when we got here. My night vision isn’t great, and I hate not being able to see, orient myself, and organize so I’m a bit discombobulated. I’m in a self-contained tent rather than banda (room). While I like having walls between me and the world, the bandas don't have attached toilet and shower facilities which the tent does, just a zip of a tent flap away. The tent has an electric light bulb (of maybe 50 watts) in each “room” but doesn’t have an electrical outlet. My camera batteries are over in the dining hall so they can be recharged. It’s rather hilarious to see approximately 20 electronic devices, mainly phones, being recharged.

My tent -- exterior and interior

Don’t know when this will be posted (not surprisingly, no internet access) but I’ll try to keep up in writing as things happen – as long as the battery holds out or I can use the electricity in the dining room. I’m sure things will look brighter tomorrow. At least I should be able to SEE!!!