Nyepi marks the Balinese Saka New Year occurring on the day that follows the dark moon of the spring equinox (spring in the northern hemisphere, actually the fall equinox here in the southern hemisphere). The entire island retreats into silence for 24 hours. On this day, dedicated to meditation and prayer, there are no flights into or out of Bali, nobody works, cooks, or travels, shops remain closed, streets are deserted, and no lights are switched on even after sunset. The priests have attempted to close down TV stations for the day but so far have been unsuccessful with that requirement. But people must remain within their homes with pecalang (village wardens) posted to keep people off the streets and beaches. While hotels are exempt from some of the strictest practices, streets are closed to pedestrians and vehicles so guests are limited to the grounds of the hotels. Lights in rooms are permitted, but curtains are to be drawn closed after dusk. Some large hotels, such as the Haven, offer a variety of activities for residents, ranging from board games to DVDs to Balinese craft projects to having a massage (advance reservations recommended!). At the Kusuma one is just stuck with only the pool for recreation although Helen was looking forward to a day of quiet and meditation, using the opportunity for a Lenten practice. She had to purchase food for lunch and dinner to eat in her room because the hotel doesn’t serve those meals, and she could not go out to a restaurant. At least the hotel in Amed serves all meals, but dinner is early today (5 p.m.) because the staff (some of whom have had to work despite the stricture against doing so) cannot have lights on after dusk in order to cook nor could we have them on to eat.
I later learned that Helen had been chastised by the manager for having a light on inside her room with the drapes pulled shut. So she had to sit in the dark in her room or hide in the bathroom with the door closed. That seemed ridiculous for a hotel. She and Monte think the manager is the type to let power go to his head! The TV stations in the Kuta area were also not broadcasting while in Amed they did. I am glad I elected to get out of the Kuta area.
The religious explanation for the requirement for quiet and dark is that the bhutas and kalas (demons) will be tricked into believing that the island has been abandoned so that they, too, will leave. Monte’s somewhat cynical explanation is that the Hindu priests need to exert their control and need to make sure that both Hindus and non-Hindus, particularly the Indonesians from other parts of the country working in Bali, understand that Bali is a Hindu community even if in the midst of the largest Moslem country on earth and that they, the priests, are in charge. I see it as another example of tradition conflicting with the practicalities of modern life. I understand the desire to maintain this clearly Hindu practice in the midst of multiculturalism, but I also resent being forced to participate in something in which I do not believe and which badly inconveniences my travel plans. I would have preferred to come to Amed on Wednesday, returning to Seminyak today which would give me a day to organize and pack before leaving Bali early Sunday morning. But since there is no travel allowed today, Friday, I had to move my plans back by a day creating a bit of a hassle as I prepare to leave Bali.
The day began early as I woke at 6 a.m. and actually saw the sunrise. Those who know me realize this is an unusual occurrence. I did go back to sleep after taking a picture.
After breakfast (delicious fruit and black rice pudding) I left the hotel (violating Nyepi rules) to take some pictures of the exterior and of the beach. I saw a boy of 10 or 12 walking down the road (supposedly not allowed), but I saw no motor vehicles, one of the few times one wouldn’t see a car or motorcycle on almost any Bali road. The beach was completely deserted with the outrigger boats used for tourist trips and scuba diving all in a row and unused.
When I returned to my room, I had to stay out of the way of the cleaners, so lay on the verandah bed, looking out at this view and reading.
Later I heard the sounds of a bouncing ball (like a basketball but more likely soccer), some noisy conversation and laughter, and three times the sound of a motor vehicle. I also saw a tug boat pulling something, out on the water, clearly working.
All of these activities meant some folk were breaking the rules. Despite these transgressions it was quite quiet, especially for Bali. (Usually the sounds of motorcycles are constant.) The roosters, however, do not adhere to Nyepi requirements because they were crowing loudly all day long. There are so many roosters because, unfortunately, cockfights are common in Bali -- not something I enjoy thinking about.
I had planned to don my suit and go across to the beach to snorkel about 1 o’clock. At 12:45 the skies opened, and a torrent of rain fell. Between then and 3:45 it was either actually raining or looking and sounding like it would do so – with lots of rumbles of thunder. I was already feeling a bit nervous about being the only person on the beach/and in the water as it was. So the rain and thunder seemed to be a sign that I should observe Nyepi and stay on the hotel grounds (after my illicit morning sojourn to the road and beach).
I was able to use the time to write, although not post, several blogs and download and organize pictures. I also finished the 5th library book I had put on my newly-purchased Nook e-book. Since those five will expire on Sunday, it’s good that I finished them. Have three more that will last until April 1 and a few more books that were free so I “own” them with no expiration date. I should be okay for reading material, although I did, fearful of a possible loss of battery power, bring along a couple of paperbacks for fall-back reading. One cannot be without something to read!
The early dinner, at 5 p.m., was delicious. I had pumpkin soup and chicken satay. Drank some more of the bottle of wine I purchased last night. The desserts sounded good, but I was too full. While eating I saw a group of 10 or 12 boys heading toward the beach with a soccer ball – clearly not in accord with Nyepi!
Paid the bill for my stay. Because I needed to use a credit card and the manager had tomorrow off (to make up, I think, for having to work on Nyepi), he needed to process it tonight. The total bill for two night’s lodging (which includes breakfast), two dinners, a glass of wine, and a bottle of wine was 2,409,100 rupiah. It sounds more impressive than the approximately $240 it represents.
Arrived back in the room about 6:45 using a flashlight provided by the manager. He reminded me that the lights could be on in my room but not on the verandah. (Need to keep those demons fooled!) So I’m now shut up in the room for the evening. Took the soaking bath I was denied yesterday; plenty of hot water today as I enjoyed the elegant tub.
More thunder and rain began while I was in the tub. Crawled into bed at 9:30 p.m.
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