Bali and Korea -- March 23, 2012

Today is Nyepi in Bali, a Hindu holiday in which everyone on the island is required to participate. Being Moslem, Christian, and/or a foreigner does not excuse one from adherence to the rules. That is one reason I elected to be in Amed on the day; Monte was told that enforcement is less stringent here then in the Kuta region and certainly less than in Ubud. (Hence my concern when it appeared I might not be allowed out of the hotel and onto the beach to snorkel today.)

Nyepi marks the Balinese Saka New Year occurring on the day that follows the dark moon of the spring equinox (spring in the northern hemisphere, actually the fall equinox here in the southern hemisphere). The entire island retreats into silence for 24 hours. On this day, dedicated to meditation and prayer, there are no flights into or out of Bali, nobody works, cooks, or travels, shops remain closed, streets are deserted, and no lights are switched on even after sunset. The priests have attempted to close down TV stations for the day but so far have been unsuccessful with that requirement. But people must remain within their homes with pecalang (village wardens) posted to keep people off the streets and beaches. While hotels are exempt from some of the strictest practices, streets are closed to pedestrians and vehicles so guests are limited to the grounds of the hotels. Lights in rooms are permitted, but curtains are to be drawn closed after dusk. Some large hotels, such as the Haven, offer a variety of activities for residents, ranging from board games to DVDs to Balinese craft projects to having a massage (advance reservations recommended!). At the Kusuma one is just stuck with only the pool for recreation although Helen was looking forward to a day of quiet and meditation, using the opportunity for a Lenten practice. She had to purchase food for lunch and dinner to eat in her room because the hotel doesn’t serve those meals, and she could not go out to a restaurant. At least the hotel in Amed serves all meals, but dinner is early today (5 p.m.) because the staff (some of whom have had to work despite the stricture against doing so) cannot have lights on after dusk in order to cook nor could we have them on to eat.

I later learned that Helen had been chastised by the manager for having a light on inside her room with the drapes pulled shut. So she had to sit in the dark in her room or hide in the bathroom with the door closed. That seemed ridiculous for a hotel. She and Monte think the manager is the type to let power go to his head! The TV stations in the Kuta area were also not broadcasting while in Amed they did. I am glad I elected to get out of the Kuta area.

The religious explanation for the requirement for quiet and dark is that the bhutas and kalas (demons) will be tricked into believing that the island has been abandoned so that they, too, will leave. Monte’s somewhat cynical explanation is that the Hindu priests need to exert their control and need to make sure that both Hindus and non-Hindus, particularly the Indonesians from other parts of the country working in Bali, understand that Bali is a Hindu community even if in the midst of the largest Moslem country on earth and that they, the priests, are in charge. I see it as another example of tradition conflicting with the practicalities of modern life. I understand the desire to maintain this clearly Hindu practice in the midst of multiculturalism, but I also resent being forced to participate in something in which I do not believe and which badly inconveniences my travel plans. I would have preferred to come to Amed on Wednesday, returning to Seminyak today which would give me a day to organize and pack before leaving Bali early Sunday morning. But since there is no travel allowed today, Friday, I had to move my plans back by a day creating a bit of a hassle as I prepare to leave Bali.

The day began early as I woke at 6 a.m. and actually saw the sunrise. Those who know me realize this is an unusual occurrence. I did go back to sleep after taking a picture.

After breakfast (delicious fruit and black rice pudding) I left the hotel (violating Nyepi rules) to take some pictures of the exterior and of the beach. I saw a boy of 10 or 12 walking down the road (supposedly not allowed), but I saw no motor vehicles, one of the few times one wouldn’t see a car or motorcycle on almost any Bali road. The beach was completely deserted with the outrigger boats used for tourist trips and scuba diving all in a row and unused.

When I returned to my room, I had to stay out of the way of the cleaners, so lay on the verandah bed, looking out at this view and reading.

Later I heard the sounds of a bouncing ball (like a basketball but more likely soccer), some noisy conversation and laughter, and three times the sound of a motor vehicle. I also saw a tug boat pulling something, out on the water, clearly working.

All of these activities meant some folk were breaking the rules. Despite these transgressions it was quite quiet, especially for Bali. (Usually the sounds of motorcycles are constant.) The roosters, however, do not adhere to Nyepi requirements because they were crowing loudly all day long. There are so many roosters because, unfortunately, cockfights are common in Bali -- not something I enjoy thinking about.

I had planned to don my suit and go across to the beach to snorkel about 1 o’clock. At 12:45 the skies opened, and a torrent of rain fell. Between then and 3:45 it was either actually raining or looking and sounding like it would do so – with lots of rumbles of thunder. I was already feeling a bit nervous about being the only person on the beach/and in the water as it was. So the rain and thunder seemed to be a sign that I should observe Nyepi and stay on the hotel grounds (after my illicit morning sojourn to the road and beach).

I was able to use the time to write, although not post, several blogs and download and organize pictures. I also finished the 5^th library book I had put on my newly-purchased Nook e-book. Since those five will expire on Sunday, it’s good that I finished them. Have three more that will last until April 1 and a few more books that were free so I “own” them with no expiration date. I should be okay for reading material, although I did, fearful of a possible loss of battery power, bring along a couple of paperbacks for fall-back reading. One cannot be without something to read!

The early dinner, at 5 p.m., was delicious. I had pumpkin soup and chicken satay. Drank some more of the bottle of wine I purchased last night. The desserts sounded good, but I was too full. While eating I saw a group of 10 or 12 boys heading toward the beach with a soccer ball – clearly not in accord with Nyepi!

Paid the bill for my stay. Because I needed to use a credit card and the manager had tomorrow off (to make up, I think, for having to work on Nyepi), he needed to process it tonight. The total bill for two night’s lodging (which includes breakfast), two dinners, a glass of wine, and a bottle of wine was 2,409,100 rupiah. It sounds more impressive than the approximately $240 it represents.

Arrived back in the room about 6:45 using a flashlight provided by the manager. He reminded me that the lights could be on in my room but not on the verandah. (Need to keep those demons fooled!) So I’m now shut up in the room for the evening. Took the soaking bath I was denied yesterday; plenty of hot water today as I enjoyed the elegant tub.

More thunder and rain began while I was in the tub. Crawled into bed at 9:30 p.m.

Bali and Korea -- March 22, 2012

Ferdinando, the same driver who took us to Ubud, picked me up at 9 a.m. for my trip to Amed on the east coast. We had some interesting conversation along the way. Ferdi is from the island of Floris, reared as a Catholic and graduated from a Catholic High School. With that high level of education, there were few opportunities for him on Floris so he went first to Java and then Bali. He is quite the entrepreneur working hard on developing his tourist business. Monte has aided him, both with business and with advice. He struggles with the traditions of his upbringing and the world in which he now lives. He and his “wife” are not legally married because his erstwhile father-in-law requires the traditional in-person contact before agreeing to the marriage, and Ferdi cannot afford the long trip back to Floris. This situation conflicts with his desire as a Catholic to be married in the church. I sensed that his wife does not feel as strongly as he does about the traditional ways, but for the moment he’s in a quandary, complicated by his baby daughter whom he loves dearly. This caused me to do some thinking about the benefits and drawbacks to tradition as an important part of life; it is a mixed bag, and the conflict in Indonesia is particularly fearsome.

We made several stops along the way to see the local sights. I elected not to visit Pura Goa Lawah which is a flying fox (bat) cave temple with the walls of the cave literally vibrating with thousands of bats and several small shrines at the entrance covered with smelly bat droppings. No thanks. . . . There was a brief stop at a beach with black, volcanic, sand. I have never seen the volcanic beaches in Hawaii, but this seemed coarser, rockier, than I’ve been led to believe is the case in Hawaii. But it is black in color.

Also visible from the beach was an array of cell phone towers. It seems that everyone in Bali has a “hand phone,” but I hadn’t seen any towers until today. Undoubtedly they were there; I just didn’t notice.

We did stop at Pura Candi Dasa, a 12^th century complex built on several levels. We were clothed in sarongs and sashes and headed up 76 steps to the temple for Hariti, originally a child-eating ogress who converted to Buddhism and became a protector of children. Here is Ferdi partway down.

Then I went to the central, main, altar where women were preparing andpresenting flower and food offerings and praying.

Across the road from the temple was a lotus lagoon, man-made but lovely.

At many of the villages through which we drove, we had seen groups of men and boys working on, or just gathered around, the ogoh-ogoh figures, being constructed (most for ritual demise) to celebrate Pengerupuk, the day before Nyepi (more on that tomorrow), which celebrates the purification of bad evil to become good spirits. I tried to take some pictures from the van but finally asked Ferdi to stop so I could get some better photos. The first figure I saw was an old friend – Haman, the white monkey, from the Kecak dance.

The finishing touches were being put on the largest, two-figure, statue.

There were many impressive ogoh-ogoh lined up on the street across from the temple which will be paraded around.

Get a load of that tongue! Female does not equal beautiful.

Several of the ogoh-ogoh statues even had battery-operated lights for the after-dark parade.

It is likely that Monte and Helen will participate in one of the parades in the Kuta area, following the figures down the street with great revelry and noise, ending at the beach for a ceremonial destruction. Either the whole figure or at least the head will be destroyed showing victory over the evil spirits. Because of my being in the hinterlands, without transportation, I will not have the opportunity for participation in this Tawur Agung Kesanga ceremony.

We arrived about noon at Taman Tirtagangga, the royal palace and water gardens created by the last Rajah/King of Karangasen in 1948 and modeled after Versailles Palace. Decided to tour first and then eat lunch at the Tirta Ayu Hotel and Restaurant which was originally part of the palace. The grounds are beautiful. The central feature is a fountain with water pouring down the sides of an 11-tiered pagoda.

One could have walked the steppingstone path through the one pool; I didn’t.

I did, however, cross this bridge.

One can, for a fee, swim in one of the pools. It is spring-fed water and so quite cold. However, according to the brochure: “Island healers have praised the waters of the holy spring at Tirtagangga, for their health and youth giving powers. It is said that if one bathes in the waters of Tirtagangga on the full moon, one is blessed with lasting youth and all illnesses will be healed.” Perhaps that’s worth being a little chilly. My guess is that this young man was there for sport, not healing.

There were many stone animals, some spouting water

and some not.

There were some real animals, however.

Most of the dogs and cats seen in Bali are very sad. Although many are attached to a family, even they run wild and seem to have to scrounge for their own food as this dog is doing on the palace grounds, eating from the offerings to the gods which are left everywhere. And many dogs and cats are completely wild with no links to a family. I was told that, because of the prevalence of rabies, many dogs and cats in eastern Bali have recently been killed by the government. As a pet owner and lover, it was difficult to see these frequently emaciated and often ill-looking dogs and cats; despite missing Katy and Jackson, I did not approach any of these animals.. I’ll wait for my pet “fix” until I arrive in urban Korea where dogs, in particular, are as cosseted as those in the U.S.

The last stop before arrival at Amed was to see and photograph the rice fields. The smaller very dark green patch on the bottom picture is of seedlings about ready to transplant – back-breaking hand work.

We reached the Baliku Boutique Hotel about 2:30 p.m. It has only five rooms, four of which had guests for tonight and tomorrow.

The room is elegant

with a wonderful outdoor verandah (for lying and sitting)

that has great views out to sea and back to the hills.

The dining area overlooks the road and out to the sea.

The only downside to the Baliku is no WiFi and a hard-wired computer connection (probably dial-up) that didn’t work. I pressed the staff into letting me use the hotel computer so I could let Monte know I’d arrived and not to expect further communication or blogs from this location.

I had come to this area particularly because I wanted to snorkel. We’d been told via e-mail that I could do so even though one is not supposed to do that sort of thing on Nyepi. I threw a hissy-fit and finally it seemed as if the manager said it would be okay to snorkel tomorrow. But that made me nervous so I decided I’d better do so this afternoon – just to make sure.

From the Galapagos trip I own a snorkel mask (prescription so I can see) and breathing apparatus. Rented a pair of fins for the sum of 25 cents and made arrangements to keep them overnight to use tomorrow. (I’m not sure the fellow doing the renting understood most of what I said, but he seemed okay when I walked off with the flippers an hour later.) The snorkeling was very nice – some beautiful fish and interesting rock and coral formations. I had a bit of trouble with the mask leaking somewhat and getting water (salt & burning) into my throat requiring several returns to shore to clear things out. But I still thoroughly enjoyed the experience. Getting in and out of the water was a bit of a challenge because the beach is rocky – very tough on my poor, tender, feet.

Returned to the room after ordering a glass of wine to be delivered and planned on a long bath in my huge tub. The best laid plans. . . . The wine turned out to be very sweet (sherry, perhaps) and completely undrinkable, and there was no hot water. So I took a tepid shower and cleaned up for dinner, arriving at the dining area about 6:30. Bought a whole bottle of wine (an extravagance at about $28), the remains of which I put in the fridge in my room for tomorrow.

Watched a little TV (news programs from various countries, in English of course) and read a bit. At 9 p.m. I was unable to keep my eyes open – the result, I think, of a combination of factors: the incredibly dim light in the room (thank goodness for my book light), the drive on hilly, curvy, roads, and the hour’s worth of snorkeling. In any event I stopped reading at 9 and was sound asleep at 9:01!

Bali and Korea -- March 21, 2012

Humid and cloudy – but probably just the norms of the rainy season as opposed to the major front we’ve been experiencing. After breakfast (did rain a bit, but stopped quickly) set up the appointment at the Atma Spa in the Haven Hotel for the massage I’ve been thinking about since arrival. Walked to Monte’s to tell him my plans for the day and then went for my 90 minute massage (called the Atma, a combination of techniques according to the receptionist). Because they kept me waiting for 15 minutes (a water problem, they said), they added on an additional 15 minutes to the length of the massage. So a 105 minute lovely massage for under $50 (which is actually fairly pricey for Bali). I thoroughly enjoyed it.

The entry into the spa area was impressive, the lobby area was restful, the massage room was lovely as was the masseuse, and the view as one looked down through the headrest quite enjoyable -- nice to stare at beautiful flowers during the massage.

There was a hint of rain which never developed as I headed down Jelan Seminyak, the main street I’ve now been on multiple times. Went to the post office to purchase some additional post cards which I wrote while having an iced coffee and a hot dog (they offered yellow mustard and catsup, one couldn’t want more). That way I could immediately mail them at the post office since mail boxes do not seem to be a Balinese thing.

Then I did a little shopping, mostly window, back on Seminyak and then Double Six Street, not its official name but everyone calls it that after the Double Six nightclub located at the end of the street. Bought a shirt – not particularly Balinese, no batik or ikat, but at least it was made in Indonesia. These are some street scenes from Double Six. Note the woman carrying the basket on her head, apparently trying to sell something to the shopkeeper.

Returned to the Kusuma Hotel and decided to do some pool time. Sitting was fine, but the recent rainfalls had cooled the water below my standards so I didn’t do much swimming.

Monte came over at 6:30 for a cocktail hour and ordered pizza for Helen and me since he’d already eaten. We decided we were too tired to go out, Helen just having returned from her one-day trip to the north coast and I getting ready to leave tomorrow for a two-day trip to the east coast. We had a delightful picnic on Helen’s balcony.

I had noticed that my new blouse had unfinished sleeves and collar which would ravel badly at first washing. Obviously I didn’t look at it carefully enough in the store. Monte suggested that a local tailor could do the finishing quickly and cheaply. Quite true. We took a quick motorcycle ride to the tailor who was still open at 9 p.m. The work will be done by tomorrow afternoon at the cost of $1.50. Can’t beat that. . . . Riding the motorcycle in the dark provided another adventure, but at least there was less traffic, and “the boys” are good motorcycle drivers.

To bed to the sound of rainfall – once again.