15 Minutes of Fame -- in Korea

I use this blog primarily to give friends information about my travels. But my experience this week was so extraordinary that I thought I'd include it here for anyone who's interested (and whom I didn't e-mail about it). So here's the story. . . .

Background -- In the late 1970's through much of the 1980's I sponsored a Korean girl through U.S. Save the Children. Hong Taek Choi was in middle school in 1982 when I first visited Korea and met her and her family. I saw her again in 1988 when I was in Korea to attend the Seoul Olympics. Even though by then she had aged out of the Save the Children program, the Korea SC staff person was able to keep track of her and report on how she was doing into the early 1990's. Then she/we lost track of Hong Taek. It is largely because of this early sponsorship and getting to know Hong Taek and the Korean Save the Children staff that my interest in and love for Korea grew.

When I was in Korea for 3 months in 2009 I met with some Save the Children - Korea (SCK) staff people who needed to interview an old sponsor. Korea's funding through the U.S./Britain/Canada/etc. ended in the late 1990's because by that point Korea couldn't really be considered a 3rd world nation. However, for the Save the Children International 90th anniversary they were doing a historical retrospective and wanted to talk to sponsors from "back then." We had a delightful conversation, and I mentioned how disappointed I was that I'd lost contact with Hong Taek. They said that there might be a possibility of locating her, which I thought would be great but didn't hold out much hope. Remember -- there are only 6 to 8 primary surnames in Korea. If you're not a Kim, you're probably a Park, Lee, or Choi. . . .

January, 2011 -- While I was in Uganda & Kenya (on a volunteer trip with my church and Give Us Wings, a local non-profit) I began receiving e-mails from SCK. They said they were in the process of locating Hong Taek, thought they could do so, and wondered if I would be willing to be filmed about my sponsorship if they were able to locate her. As I've sort of been able to piece together, SCK in conjunction with Seoul Broadcasting System (SBS) does an annual telethon-type of program to try to get support from Koreans for SCK's national and international programs. SCK now operates programs in Mali, Nepal, and other locations. I was happy to agree. Then they realized how much I am still involved with Korean culture -- member of a Korean drumming group; taking Korean language lessons; working with a Korean graduate student at the U. of MN to improve his English conversation. And they learned about my various volunteer activities. So they decided filming me at all these activities would be great. They set tentative dates (which then changed, complicating matters) and wanted me to coordinate their being able to film me doing the variety of activities. I was trying to coordinate all this from Africa on those occasions where an internet connection was available. Of course, the days they were going to be here did not coordinate at all with the dates my activities usually take place so everything had to be specifically set up. It was a LOT of work.

Feb. 22, 23, 24 -- Two young women from SCK and a producer/cameraman from SBS arrived in the Twin Cities late Tuesday afternoon. We met briefly Tuesday evening to discuss the activities of Wed. and Thurs. At 10 a.m. on Wed. we met at the Hubbs Center, a public high school for adults in St. Paul, where I volunteer once a week, helping students, primarily immigrants to the U.S., with their homework which mostly involves English -- vocabulary, grammar, pronunciation. After that and a quick lunch everyone came to my apartment where they filmed me talking about Korea and my love for the country and its culture, Hong Taek, my interest and involvement in Korean cultural activities here in Minnesota, etc., etc. I showed them the many souveniers from Korea which I have and brought out the hanbok (traditional Korean dress) which Hong Taek's mother had given me during my 1982 visit. We looked at pictures from that visit and the one in 1988. I quickly realized that I'm glad I'm NOT a famous person. Being filmed, doing the same thing several times (to make it look better), answering basically the same things over and over is not particularly fun. I was very happy to help out SCK and certainly want their fundraising to be successful -- but it was exhausting.

They had brought a video of Hong Taek which they had recorded and showed on their laptop. It was amazing to see/hear her; her Korean words were translated (and, I think, shortened) as subtitles. She looked a bit older (is now in her mid-40's) but very much the same. I found the video rather frustrating in that it didn't tell me much about her -- what she's been doing in the last 20 years, etc. I kept asking the staff people for more information. At that point there was a knock on the door. I answered it, expecting a neighbor (because we have a secure entry which requires being buzzed into the building). It was Hong Taek herself!! I felt as if I were in the middle of an extremely schmaltzy reality TV show (which, in truth, I was) and reacted, I'm sure, as stupidly as most people do in that situation. I really did not expect to see her at my door. I was happy enough seeing the video and being able to make contact, figuring I'd be able to see her the next time I went to Korea in a few years. But there she was. Her English is as limited as my Korean but with the help of SCK staff we were able to communicate. She is married and has 3 daughters, ranging in age from 13 to 17. She lives in a suburb of Seoul -- only about 25 minutes (6 subway stops) from where I lived in Seoul in 2009. I couldn't believe that. . . .

Hong Taek brought me another beautiful hanbok, and we had our pictures taken together. These dresses are so beautiful -- I wish that there were places I could wear them! After that, the rest of the planned activities seemed anticlimactic. But we had to get film of a Korean lesson (teacher Steve Oh made a special effort to come to the Korean Heritage House for a somewhat fake lesson) and of my drumming group practicing (only a few members could make it, but it was the best we could do). We had a great Korean meal at a Korean restaurant across the street (St. Paul's remaining "Koreantown" consists of about 5 businesses, 3 of them restaurants). The SCK folk took Hong Taek back to their hotel, and I went home -- utterly spent.

Thursday morning the two SCK staff and Hong Taek came over without the SBS cameraman, and we had a chance to actually talk/find out more about one another's current lives. At 11 they left to check out and go to the airport. I went to meet a Korean student (advisee of friend Linda Lindeke who's a professor of nursing at the U. of MN) for a previously-planned lunch. It was fun meeting her, and I had another great Korean meal. I'd thought the visitors might want to film the lunch, but they had to get going.

At 1:30 I went to the airport and picked up Hong Taek for a little sightseeing in St. Paul. The others were going on to Westport, Connecticut, the home of U.S. Save the Children, on a 3 p.m. flight and Hong Taek wasn't going to leave until 7:50. Sitting alone for over 4 hours in an airport when one doesn't speak the language didn't seem like much fun to me. I showed Hong Taek our wonderful renovated Central Library, Landmark Center, and the St. Paul Hotel -- all near or more than 100 years old. She's a photographer and had a wonderful time taking pictures of interesting architectural details. We had time for a stop at my church so I could show her that -- since St. John's plays such an important part in my life. Then it was off to the airport.

I was able to get a gate pass and accompany her to the gate area to make sure she got her seat assignment and the boarding pass for the Los Angeles to Seoul part of the flight. By happenstance we happened to sit next to a man who was going to L.A. on the same flight and volunteered to make sure she got whatever assistance she needed to get on the right plane in L.A. At 7 p.m. I returned home -- again exhausted and slept the sleep of the dead.

It was a phenomenal experience that I still can't totally believe. The program will be broadcast in Seoul in early May. When I get an exact date, I'll let my Korean friends know so they can watch me in my 15 minutes of fame. Now I'm quite glad to return to obscurity.

If you've read this far, thank you for indulging me. It was such an amazing experience that I wanted to share, even though I understand your interest level is far less than mine.

Here's a picture of me and Hong Taek in our hanboks.

At Home -- Thinking about the trip (The last post)

It is good to be home. 10 days after my return I think I've licked jet lag, and my tummy is just fine.

I am very glad I went on this trip. The gorilla viewing was wonderful, even if physically demanding. The volunteer portion of the trip was interesting, enlightening, and useful even if one to two steps past my personal comfort level. Seeing the clinic built with funds provided by my church was incredibly exciting; I am thrilled I was there for the dedication.

I had little difficulty dealing with the emotional issues being presented by poverty, people in sad situations, the unfairness of life; that was hard, but I could handle it. My primary problem (somewhat embarrassing to admit, but true) was with living with heat, dirt, inadequate toilet and shower facilities, uncomfortable sleeping. I have never liked camping or the primitive life, and those negative feelings have probably increased as I age and enjoy creature comforts even more.

Am I sorry I did the trip? Absolutely not. Would I do it again? In the same format, knowing what I now know, I would not. I have no need to see the gorillas again; that item has been crossed off my "bucket" list. I would like to go back to Uganda to see the clinic when it's up and operating and touch base with the other groups in the Tororo area. Since that can be done from a hotel room, I would be willing to do that. The Nyaoga portion (where my lodging in the staff housing was superior to that of the other half of the group but in my "not acceptable" range), I would not repeat. At least I say that now. However, I have learned that one should never say never. . . .

This is the final post on Africa. I may blog on my next trip -- Hungary and Croatia in late June. Check in and find out then.

En Route & Home -- February 2, 2011

We landed in Amsterdam at 5:10 a.m. European time (7:10 a.m. back in Nairobi). We had plenty of time before the flight to Minneapolis was scheduled to depart so I indulged myself in a very expensive shower. Schiphol Airport has shower facilities available; costs 15 Euro (about $24), and was worth every penny! It was a wonderful, modern, bathroom with unending amounts of hot water!!!!!

I'd taken a change of clothing in my carry-on so moved toward the next flight feeling clean and refreshed. Unfortunately, the flight was delayed. Some of the delay occurred before we got on the plane, some after. But it was about 3 hours in all resulting in an even longer day than expected.

Instead of arriving in the Twin Cities at 12:15 p.m. , it was mid-afternoon. Friend Barb Lindeke was there to pick me up, and a number of the GUW folk were there to greet us. I was VERY glad to be home.

Kenya -- February 1, 2001

We finished our packing, leaving our luggage in the room GUW had kept for the day. Farewells to the three folk (Mary Amy, and Cassidy) who were continuing with a third week and going to the coast. After breakfast the eight of us headed for the market to do the final purchasing of items that will be sold at the GUW fundraiser. Since I am no good at bargaining, and hate doing it, I told Cammie I'd accompany her and carry purchases but that she could do the purchasing.

Behind the shopping center we'd been at several times (within walking distance of the guest house if one didn't mind taking one's life in one's hands trying to cross a busy street) is a market. Because today there was a big market elsewhere, no more than half the stalls in this market were open. Because of that and we were there so early, it wasn't very crowded. It still drove me crazy!
Cammie did an admirable job of haggling, getting the best prices she could.

I did buy a couple of things; might have purchased more but I couldn't tolerate the pushy shopkeepers and required bargaining.

We were picked up and returned with all the purchases to the guest house. Dropped things off and immediately got back in the van to head for the elephant sanctuary. Because we'd started late and traffic was dreadful, we didn't arrive until 11:30. But that still gave us time to observe the orphaned baby elephants being raised here until they're old enough to transition back to the wild at Tsavo East Park. (The time for viewing is only 11 to 12 each day.)

The elephants were quite entertaining, enjoying their mud bath and squirting water.


Check out those eyelashes!

The shelter also has several black rhinos. One goes back and forth into the Nairobi National Park. The other is permanently blind (efforts have been made, but nothing can be done) so must stay in confinement.

There were also a number of warthogs wandering around the sanctuary grounds.











So I did get to see some wild animals on this African trip.

Most of us returned to the guest house where we finished packing the craft purchases and then had a little time to relax and read before heading to the airport. Ann, David, and Allison went on a Safari drive in the Nairobi Park, returning in time to get the bus to the airport. After the market Cammie had gone off to meet with some acquaintances who live in Nairobi; she returned just in time for our airport transportation.

We all got to the Nairobi airport in plenty of time, despite extremely heavy traffic, got something to eat, and sat around to wait for our 10:45 p.m. flight to Amsterdam. I actually was able to sleep for 5 or 6 hours on the flight.

Kenya -- January 31, 2011

This was the day that Jennifer, a long-time GUW supporter and St. John's parishioner, was to meet Joseph, the Masai boy that her family has been sponsoring for years. He has spina bifuda and has also had portions of both legs amputated, necessitating a wheel chair which is difficult to manuever in his environment. Everyone was excited since we've heard a lot about Joseph; the group was almost as eager to meet him as Jennifer.

Jennifer had brought a number of well-planned, thoughtful, gifts for Joseph and his mom.


One of the gifts was a soccer ball which he immediately used, finding volunteers willing to play with him.


After all the excitement and fun, there was work to be done. Volunteers Cammie, a physical therapist, and Allison, a nurse practitioner, met with mom, Grace, and Mary to obtain as much history on Joseph's medical condition as they could. Then the group talked to and examined Joseph. Shriner's Hospital in the Twin Cities has indicated a willingness to provide prosthesis if that would work; this visit was an attempt to gather enough information to determine if that is possible. Further discussion and analysis will be necessary before a decision can be made.

While that was going on, I enjoyed watching the kitten play. The kitten enjoyed the tuna I had brought along for my food but not eaten all of it. I don't think he'd ever had anything that tasted so good!













Several of us also went giraffe hunting. Giraffes are common in the areas near the farm. Having seen some long necks in the distance, we headed out to see if we could get closer. While my camera didn't have a long enough lens to get a great picture, I was at least able to document that I saw them.

The terrain through which we walked was filled with spiky bushes; one walked carefully.











With Joseph's medical exam completed, half the group returned to Nairobi in order to begin shopping for the craft items we would take back with us. The other part of the group returned Joseph to his home after first visiting his school. These visits also provided more information about his life and how it could be improved, with or without prosthesis. Because I had heard so much about Joseph over the years, I wanted to remain with him.

Seeing the school, Osupuko Primary School, was an eye opener. One building, currently used for administration, slated to be a classroom next year as the school adds grades, was concrete.


The classroom structures were tin with dirt floors with lots of rocks, difficult to manuever with a wheel chair, and doors too narrow to wheel the chair in anyway.

The privies are incredibly far from the classroom buildings. This is a picture of the girls outhouse; the boys' is even farther away! No way Joseph could ever get there.


From Joseph's school we drove to his house. It's quite a ways; cannot believe he gets there every day in his wheelchair. He insisted that siblings and friends who live nearby be allowed to ride in our vehicle; it was a bit crowded!


Joseph was very proud of his home. He wanted us to go inside so we could see it all. Although it had a metal roof so was more rectangular rather than the ones we'd seen yesterday, it was otherwise very much the same as the Masai homes we'd previously visited.


Joseph wanted a picture with Jennifer that included some of his siblings. His mom had 8 children after him, the youngest still a baby in her arms. And yet she cares so much about Joseph and takes such good care of him. His survival is a testament to her love.


The affection between Joseph and Jennifer was clear as they said good-bye.

Joseph's mom and his uncle came along with us to go to Ngong, the nearest city where some additional uniforms for school could be purchased. Because of Joseph's bladder and bowel problems, the uniforms sometimes get soiled so additional changes are necessary to have on hand.

"Beautiful downtown Ngong" had to be searched for an open uniform store that had uniforms on hand (many are sewn to order), but mom found one, and the purchases were made.


The picture cannot encompass the smell of burning trash which was taking place at the other end of this street. Not a wonderful town.

Jennifer gave the family money for transport to get back to their home, and we took off in the van toward Nairobi. Along the way we needed to do commode shopping. Joseph's home has no privy so this is a first step to making his life easier. And how many tourists get to shop for a commode?! There was actually a selection as shown on the left. Annike bargained vigorously to get a good price (right) as the rest of us looked on in admiration.










The final choice will have some handles put on it and be picked up in a few days for transport to Joseph's house.

Finally returned to the guest house about 6 for a quick clean-up before meeting the rest of the group at a restaurant/pub in the nearby shopping center.

Enjoyed that glass of wine!

Kenya -- January 30, 2011

I think the traveling/living out of a suitcase/heat/etc. is getting to me. Last night I had a mini-meltdown when I couldn't find a kerchief that I KNEW was in my suitcase. (Turned out later that I'd put it in my backpack -- who knows when?) But I got a reasonable night's sleep so things were better in the morning. We left about 8:15 to go to the Nakamat (the Target of East Africa) in Karen, the beautiful "suburban" community established on and around Karen Blixen's (Out of Africa author under the Isak Dineson pen name) estate. We're now in two 8 passenger safari vans because the roads are so poor the larger bus couldn't do them. We were going to do final shopping for the Masai "Day in the life" families we'd be visiting. Arriving at 8:45 we got coffee at a coffee shop (not Starbucks or Caribou but okay) awaiting the 9 a.m. opening. Unfortunately, Sunday opening time is 10 so the coffee was transferred to "to go" cups and we headed off for a local market. It was more interesting anyway -- and next door to the "High Class Butchery." As we continued on our day the road became increasingly worse and dusty. At a stop along the way to visit a family Give Us Wings has been assisting, this was the view.

Yep. -- Really that desolate. I felt as if I was in the middle of a 1950's TV western.

We arrived at Grace and John's farm where we would be spending the night, off-loaded our baggage, including 4 large tents, and headed off for the Masai village where GUW has been working with the women's group. They had decided to hold their church service outside near the under-construction school building rather than in their church and have a shorter-than-normal service. It was in progress as we arrived, but we were able to see/participate in much of it.

There was singing and dancing















a children's choir
testimony

















preaching



















and a collection
Pretty much a complete worship experience. . . . Following the service and a bit of dancing, with which we volunteers joined in, there was the inevitable meeting and report of the Women's Group, for themselves and to Mary and GUW. The leader and teacher of the group is Janet who was shunned by her Masai family because of handicaps produced by childhood polio and taken in by John and Grace who supported her schooling through a college degree. When she came back, educated and clearly a leader, her family was proud and accepted her. She has two children who live with Grace and John during the week because she is working.

The Masai women who lost out on the chance for an education are now attending classes with Janet. Their husbands are "allowed" to come -- only if their wife is present and only if the number of men does not get too large. A local store has been opened, and the group is making real profits as well as providing a service by bringing goods to be purchased more conveniently.




















The after-church gathering was a goat feast. I stuck with eating bananas and my bars. Do not want to upset my stomach again. We also had the opportunity to purchase some of the lovely Masai beadwork. I bought a belt and a bracelet and some gifts.



Then we went off with families happy to show us their homes. My guides were Janet's younger siblings.

















The houses together in a compound seem to be occupied by relatives; it may be that most/all are co-wives of the same man. Apparently the tradition of polygamy is changing since many of the younger men were eager to tell us that they had only one wife -- and not so many children. All the people were friendly, wanting us to visit their homes, pointing out their goats, dogs, etc. and wanting pictures taken. The houses are mud and quite dark inside with only small holes for windows. Cooking is done within the hut, leading to smoky smells throughout. The door to this house is closed, and locked with a padlock.
















This is the proud homeowner
Inside, the kitchen area (in the middle of the house -- accidental burning would be easy)

Here is the husband's sleeping area.




















Friends, neighbors, relatives, co-wives & families? . . .

Above the housing compound are high cliffs where we were told monkeys live. At night they come down and are capable of killing a small goat. So dogs are used for protection. This was a cute pup.


































We then returned to the farm, hot and dusty. I was ready for a hot "shower." After waiting my turn, I was given a basin of warm water (better than got at many of the hotels) and was able to wash off the day's grime in the shower room.

I set up my tent in the bedroom. Many of the volunteers put up theirs outdoors within the larger tents that had been brought along to provide accommodation for 2 to 3 people each.






























This is the front entry and the rear view of the farm house.











Even though electricity only came to the property very recently, the house is well equipped.

Although Grace and John (a retired pastor) have a home in Ngong, they spend most of their time on the farm -- rearing orphans, making sure they attend school, training them in farming and house work, and generally providing a safe and loving environment. The children are mostly Masai, but one boy, whose parents had died and was being a real problem for his elderly grandmother, came from Nyaoga.

In the evening after dinner they each stood up and told their "story."

The most exciting story was that of Sylvia, who had scored so well (highest in the region) that she received a full 4-year scholarship to a very good boarding high school in Nairobi and had met the Kenyan President at a reception.