Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Home -- September 13, 2010

The Picadilly Underground line was having problems so I had a bit of a wait to get the tube to Heathrow. Fortunately I'd started early so had plenty of time despite the delay. Planes (from Heathrow to Keflavik and from Keflavik to Minneapolis-St. Paul) were timely and no more miserable than such flights usually are. Since there was an empty middle seat next to my aisle seat on the second, longer, flight, it was actually less miserable than the usual coach (i.e. cattle car) accommodation.

Plane arrived at 6:20 p.m. By the time I collected my car, hauled my suitcase up three flights of stairs to my apartment, went to pick up Katy from where she was staying with her buddy Mignon, and made a Burger King run for some sustenance (no food in the house), it was almost 10 p.m. and time for bed.

This was a great trip. Had a wonderful time and pretty much did/saw all that I'd hoped when I was planning it. I will admit, though, that 4 weeks was a little long. Given all I wanted to/did do, that amount of time was necessary, but I was definitely glad to be home. The work (painting and floor refinishing) scheduled to be done in my absence was completed and looks good. There are a few, minor, things yet to be done and a LOT of organizing on my part. But I did miss the worst of the mess.

This will be the last post for awhile. -- Probably until I have another trip on which to report. My normal life is just not that interesting. . . .

Sunday, September 12, 2010

London -- Sept. 12, 2010

I definitely wanted to visit Kew Gardens on this visit. Saved it for the last day since weather information indicated the weather would be best today. -- And it was. Blue skies, sunshine, and temperatures approaching 70. A nice day for being outside.

Arrived at the Gardens a little after 11. Had a sausage roll for brunch while I studied the map. Probably ended up walking 3 or 4 miles, but it was so nice and on paths rather than concrete that I really didn't notice. Despite Kew
having lost hundreds of trees in a storm in 1987, there are still some large and old ones around.
This sweet chestnut dates from the early 18th century.

There is a treetop walkway, 110 steps up, which allows one to walk above and in some trees, including some of those huge sweet chestnuts.


There's a small lake in the middle of the gardens with an angled bridge across it.

Kew is known for its "glass houses." The Palm House is the iconic one seen in most pictures of Kew Gardens. It's seen here from the rose garden side; there were actually still a few roses.


On the other, front, side, there was a lineup of Queen's Beasts. Here I am with the Lion of England.

I left Kew about 2:15 hoping to get to St. Paul's Cathedral for a 3:15 Evensong. To avoid changing tube lines I decided to go to Blackfriar's and walk. Unfortunately, I hadn't noticed the fine print on the tube map which indicated that station was closed. So had to go to the next station. Then I walked several blocks in the wrong direction; it's amazing that I tend to walk the wrong way out of a tube station about 90% of the time. Anyway, I was late for Evensong but did get there in enough time for the ceremony of "Admission of Choristers." Four new boys had the formal ceremony and were issued their cassocks. They were incredibly young and tiny. But it was sweet, especially after the Evensong when friends and relatives came around to congratulate them. The singing was lovely, and the surroundings impressive. We sat under the dome.

Following the Evensong there was an organ concert at 4:45, one in a series of Sunday afternoon concerts highlighting the English Organ Sonata. This piece, written in 1937 by Percy Whitlock, wasn't particularly memorable (in my opinion), but it was fun hearing the organ, particularly in that setting.
At 5:30 I was heading for the hotel, remembering that I had to walk one station past Blackfriar's. Along Victoria Embankment the street was closed off to traffic as marchers gathered for a parade that was part of the Mayor's Thames Festival which ends tonight with fireworks. I'm too tired, and have to pack, so I won't be watching the parade or the fireworks. But it was fun seeing the marchers gather -- some really weird stuff.



I thought the juxtaposition of this "float" with Cleopatra's Needle (an Egyptian obelisk that was given by Egypt upon the defeat of Napoleon) was particularly interesting.


Finally got to the subway and back to "my" station. Checked around at a couple of hotels in the area as possible future choices. This hotel is fine -- but far too expensive. Despite the cost, however, I ate dinner at the hotel restaurant; didn't have the energy to go out.

Need to pack and organize for my flight tomorrow. Need to leave for the airport about 10 a.m.

London -- Sept. 11, 2010

Finally left the room at 10 a.m. only to find the Gloucester Road tube station a mess. Two of the machines for tickets (the only ones taking cash) were out of order so lines for tickets were very long. Luckily, I have a credit card and the knowledge, based on experience, that one of those machines typically has a short line; so got on my way fairly quickly. Off to the British Museum.
Spent about 3 hours exploring the museum -- as much as one can in that time. I saw the Rosetta Stone (again) because it interests me -- and is right off the main entry in a glass case dominating everything! Other than that I tried to follow and find as many of the objects as I could that were included in the partially completed BBC Radio program: "History of the World in 100 Objects." They're now through item 70; the program resumes shortly with the 100th object being revealed in late October. It provides an interesting way to check out the variety of items in the British Museum. This head from Easter Island was #70 on the list. Guess I'll have to check the BBC web site to learn what the last 30 items are. . . .

After 3 hours of standing and walking on marble floors, I was ready to sit. So I took the tube to Embankment, hopped on the circular Thames boat trip, and spent an hour looking the easy way. Although I didn't see much new, the perspective was different -- and I was off my feet! As we went down river to the Tower of London and then back up to Westminster,

had a nice view of Tower Bridge

and of the London Eye (I rode on it six years ago)

and of the building which up to just a couple of years ago served as the city's fish market.


Returned to the hotel room briefly to change clothes and head out for the theater. I'd gotten a ticket for a preview performance of a new play at the National Theater. The exterior of the theater building is concrete ugliness (in my opinion) and the interior is a bit worn and tatty. But they put on interesting plays.

Blood and Gifts is a new play about Afghanistan during the years of the Soviet invasion. It's mainly from a U.S. perspective but also has a British element. At the end, as the CIA's Afghan partner has become firmly anti-American and shouting about Allah, I got a chill -- today is, after all, 9/11.

Friday, September 10, 2010

London -- Sept. 9 & 10, 2010

Margaret and Brian drove Aprel and me to Southampton Thursday morning, Aprel to catch the National Express bus to Heathrow and me to catch the train to London. Aprel left earlier so Brian, Margaret, and I had the chance for coffee overlooking the docks. Unfortunately, there were no interesting ocean liners in port.

Train left and arrived on time. Juggled luggage from train to tube, including a change; arrived at Gloucester Road and walked the block to the hotel. My room is a typical single -- very small and stuck in next to the stairway door. My view overlooks the air conditioning units and brick walls. Given that the front of the building is on Cromwell Road which is very busy, the back may be preferable. Anyway, I won't be spending a lot of time here. And the tub is huge; definitely need to find time to take a long, soaking, bath.

After organizing a bit, I took off on a walk. Decided to see if I could get tickets to a Proms concert at Royal Albert Hall, which I did -- for tonight's performance. So I went to the "second to the" Last Night at the Proms. -- Not quite the same, but. . . .
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After buying the ticket I walked across Kensington Road at the Albert Memorial, quite amazingly pretentious,
and then through Hyde Park, checking out the birds lined up across The Serpentine, the Peter Pan statue, and lots of dogs being taken for walks.












Returned to the hotel to change clothes and then get back to the Royal Albert Hall for the concert. It was an enjoyable concert. The BBC Philharmonic, one of four BBC orchestras, performed Schubert, Schumann, Mozart, and a new piece by Robin Holloway who was in attendance. I doubt that a hundred or two hundred years from now any orchestras will be playing that piece. . . .

I sat next to a young man who, it turns out, sings in one of the BBC choruses (there are two) and did Beethoven's Ninth some weeks ago with the Minnesota Orchestra. It
is a small world. He was quite complimentary about the conductor, Osmo Vanska, and thought the orchestra played extremely well, especially after a bad rehearsal. He will be singing on Saturday at the Last Night. He gave me a lot of information about the Proms and the BBC musical operation; apparently this year has been extremely successful.

Got back to the hotel about 10, but it took a long time to do blogs leftover from the Parish Holiday and get to bed. I was moving very slowly so didn't get to sleep until after 1:30 a.m.

But there I was on Friday morning, awake at 8 a.m. Again moved slowly so didn't get out of the room until 11 a..m. Took the tube to Westminster and walked along the Thames, crossing to the south side at the Hungerford Pedestrian Bridge, which is also a railroad bridge. There are good views back up the Thames to Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament.
The Hungerford Bridge ends at the Royal Festival Hall which has an outdoor Thamesside cafe, with a view of the Millenium Pedestrian Bridge.
Had a little lunch and then walked on to Shakespeare's Globe Theater where I'd gotten tickets for a performance of The Merry Wives of Windsor. While I usually read a Shakespeare play before attending, obviously I couldn't -- and with this play which I've read and seen multiple times, it probably didn't matter. The play was performed well and was quite enjoyable.









When the play was finished, I went "next door" to the Tate Modern Museum and saw the exhibit, "Exposed: Voyeurism, Surveillance & the Camera." I'd read about it somewhere, perhaps in Newsweek. It raised interesting questions and issues.
Had a wrap sandwich at the Museum and then walked across the Millenium Bridge I'd been looking at. It leads directly to St. Paul's Cathedral which, at 7 p.m., was of course closed but was still photogenic.
Took the subway back to the hotel arriving at 8 p.m. Nine hours of sightseeing on 6 hours of sleep isn't bad. . . . Tonight should involve more sleep (I hope).

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Parish Holiday Day 7 -- 9-8-10

Because the weather forecasts were for such bad weather, the decision was made not to go to Hurst Castle the scheduled event for the day since it is on the coast, exposed to the elements and requiring walking on shingle (rocky beaches). Instead we divided up with different visitors going to different places.

Three of us went to Mottisfont Abbey, a stately home built originally as a priory, converted to a manor house in Tudor times, and now a National Trust property. The house is interesting, but it seems to be known mainly for the gardens, particularly roses. Of course, September is not prime rose growing time, but there were still a few blooming -- the old-fashioned kind with great fragrance. It also has a river with shallow, clear, water and lots of trout. Elizabeth was our parish holiday escort; very nice because she's a volunteer at Mottisfont so knows quite a lot about it. Great having the "inside" scoop.













For a few months there is also an exhibit at Mottisfont of drawings by Beatrix Potter. She left her Lake District property and all her drawings to the National Trust so they are able to display some of them from time to time in one of their properties. To accompany the exhibition, and appeal to the children (me, as well), the dining room was set up as a feast for her characters with Peter Rabbit presiding.


After lunch at the Mottisfont cafe, the others wanted to go to a local pottery. We all went to Elizabeth's house where they were picked up by Terry to go to the pottery. Since I am not interested in buying anything that has to be packed and taken home, particularly heavy pottery (!), I stayed at Elizabeth's house enjoying her lovely gardens and animals: dog, cat, chickens, and llamas. She and her husband used to have a farm; when they retired, she couldn't give up all her animals.












Then returned to Brian and Margaret's to begin the organizing/packing process -- and working on pictures and blog. As I arrived Brian was cutting the grass; I thought he was just doing his manly household duties. N-o-o-o. He was creating a croquet lawn and was quite insistent on our playing a game. Margaret begged off as she was fixing dinner, but Aprel and I joined in. Brian plays bowls regularly and croquet some and knows quite a bit about both. Given my athletic "abilities," I expected to lose badly and just wanted to get it over with. Instead, it was really fun -- and I won!!! Brian didn't hear the end of that; all evening long I milked it for all it was worth.

While at dinner there was a call for a final get-together at the village pub. Two of the parish holiday visitors weren't there, but five of us were, along with six of the locals. It was good to have the chance for a last farewell.










Parish Holiday Day 6 -- 9-7-10

Woke up to sunshine coming through though the window – surprising because of the dire predictions of rain. Decided to take advantage and do a load of laundry which I then hung out to dry. Margaret volunteered to take it in if it should rain, if she were at home. So with hope I’d have enough clean clothes to last me through the trip, I left at the usual 10 a.m. hour for an exploration of the New Forest.

The “New” Forest, it should be noted, dates from William the Conqueror and the 11th century! It’s all relative, I guess. . . . And the “Forest” does contain wooded areas, probably more than in William’s time, but it also has a lot of open heath. Officially a National Park, like most in England there are villages and privately-owned land within the Forest and the grass areas are used by those in the area for common grazing.

So cattle, pigs, horses, and donkeys all roam within the New Forest boundaries, grazing and happily walking along and across the roads making for low speed limits and careful driving. There are also deer, although they tend to keep to certain areas. The villages and private houses are protected by fences and cattle grids so the animals aren’t walking down the High Streets. It’s an interesting concept, but it seems to work, having been in existence for hundreds of years.

Our first stop in the New Forest was Furzey Gardens. Starting, apparently, with a small cottage that had been built in 1560, occupied well into the 20th century before being abandoned, the new owner refurbished the cottage and began improving the grounds with gardens. It is now a training facility for the developmentally disabled who learn a variety of skills, primarily gardening but also thatching. There is a retreat facility on the site, many quirky wood and thatch structures scattered around the grounds, hidden fairy doors to keep visiting children interested in going through the gardens, and many wonderful plantings (although this probably isn’t the best season to view). We spent a delightful hour and a half walking through the garden – and occasionally just sitting and enjoying.














We went to Burley, one of the New Forest villages, for lunch and a wander -- and ice cream! New Forest ice cream is quite tasty and very available.





While looking at the various shops, I came across this basket of Jolly Gollys; apparently blackface dolls are okay if they're gollys and not gollywogs. . . .













In driving back to Sherfield English, we saw many of the sights of the New Forest, some of which seemed questionable to us but are significant in the life of the area: the naked man (basically a dead tree which formerly was used to hang witches), the Portuguese fireplace remaining from WWI, the Rufus Stone where William II, known as Rufus, was shot in 1100, and the Canadian Memorial -- the spot where Canadian soldiers preparing for D-Day worshipped.


Tonight was the parish barbecue with all the parish holiday visitors and as many of the people who've helped as could make it. It was held in the same wonderful garden as our earlier gathering for tea. A good time was had by all.

During the barbecue the St. Leonard's bell ringers began practicing. Because Elizabeth is a bell ringer, she invited us to go up to the tower to observe. We were even given a chance to ring a bell -- sort of. I held the bottom of the rope while the expert handled the sally (the colored fat part of the rope). It was fun again to see how it's done.