Hungary & Croatia -- Day 6

Bus left Fuzine promptly at 9 a.m. Unfortunately, I was unshowered since there was NO hot water. We headed toward Krk (pronounced Krick – Croatians seem to be vowel-challenged), an island in the Kvarner Gulf. It is the only island that has a road as well as the ferry connection which serves the other major inhabited islands. There was beautiful scenery along the way; Croatia is quite gorgeous – lush and green with mountains and curving roads and, once we passed through a long tunnel, a gorgeous view of the Adriatic.

The major roads in Croatia are good; many seem to be new, and there is still construction going on. On the way down the hillside to the Krk bridge one could see a new, improved, road being constructed. Using tunnels, it will reduce the elevation changes and eliminate the sharp drop-off from a narrow road that we experienced.

The City of Krk is on the west side of the island of Krk. The island has a population of 17,000 residents, which number expands dramatically during the tourist season. The bridge has increased accessibility for both tourists and full-time residents although during the winter the bridge is sometimes unusable when winds of up to 200 km. can render it impassable.

Krk was colonized in the 4^th century by the Romans who built city walls. Since they were not defensive but just part of typical city architecture, the materials used were not the best, and those walls did not last. The walls currently remaining are from the late medieval period and were built for defense against the Venetians. As it turned out, the Venetians were successful in taking over Krk but did so peacefully by reaching an agreement with the city’s leading families.

The clock on the gate is a rare, 24-hour one. The a.m. hours are on the left side, and p.m. is on the right.

The owl is the symbol the city of Krk and flies on the flag over the main town square.

The Francophone family was the lead family under Venetian rule. The fortified castle from which they ruled was built from the 12^th to the 14^th centuries and served as the town’s defense from naval attacks. The square tower, from 1191, is the oldest part and originally also served as a courthouse.

For a small fee I was able to climb up to the top of the round tower and go along the battlements to the square tower to descend. In the square tower was a display of medieval dress and a huge display of the Francophone family tree. Once the Hapsburgs came to power in the area, they had the Francophones killed so the family tree ended rather abruptly.

The views from atop the castle were quite nice.

The Bishop’s House was next to the Square Tower. This is the front of the Bishop’s House, the eastern side of which was constructed at the same time as the cathedral. The Krk diocese was first mentioned in the 7^th century.

The cathedral was begun in the 11^th century of Romanesque construction; it comprises remains of Roman baths, the chapel of St. Quirinus, and a bell tower, which was built in the 16^th century.

The original wood angel atop the bell tower also served as a weather vane. The current angel with trumpet, made “music” with the wind until the neighbors complained.

Krk had many narrow charming streets. In an effort to catch tourist’s interest, one shop owner had a number of music box mechanisms displayed which played a variety of tunes. Steve, the band’s tuba player, was clearly interested.

We returned to the bus to drive to the mid-point of the island of Krk and the much smaller town of Vrbnik. Its streets are so narrow that the bus had to leave the trailer (with our luggage!) on the outskirts of town near the vineyards and even with just the bus had to leave us to walk up several hundred yards to reach the main part of town. On the walk we had a lovely view of the church and of the sea (only slightly disturbed by me).

Vrbnik claims one of its streets as the narrowest in the world. Klancic, at its narrowest point is only 43 cm. Wouldn’t pay to be claustrophobic.

We had a walking tour of the town which included some city walls and towers. For residents’ safety, all residential buildings were located within the walls with access only through two gates.

We were heading for the Nada Winery where grappa and wine tasting were scheduled. Along the way was some lovely scenery.

There were three types of grappa available; fig, herb, and plain (going from mildest to strongest). All were a bit harsh for my taste.

The wines were a bit more enjoyable (from my perspective). There was Zlahtine (white), Bejda (red) and Prosek (dessert). I liked them all since they tended to be light and mild. A good time was had by all.
We returned to the bus, walking down a somewhat easier pathway, picked up the luggage trailer at 3:30 and began a 2-hour journey to Opatija and our hotel for the night where, as usual, it took time to get keys distributed to 60-some people. Opatjia really came into its own in the mid-19^th century when a visit by Austrian Empress Maria Anna made it the “in” place to vacation. It’s no longer the height of fashion but does have some nice beaches and typical tourist offerings.

We unpacked a little and then headed off at 7:10 to Lovran, a nearby town of 3,600 residents, where the concert was to be held. One local band, Marinici, played first, then Star of the North, with the Lovran band concluding the concert. It was a delightful setting – the Main Square, next to the Church of St. George. Chairs were set up for the band and audience, in between the outdoor tables of several restaurants and coffee bars.

After the concert there was a brief reception at a nearby building. Such get-togethers with the local bands are fun, but it went on a bit long for me. We didn’t get back to the hotel until 11:45. By the time I got myself organized and to bed it was almost 1 a.m. – far too late for me!

Hungary & Croatia -- Day 5

The hotel in Fuzine, the Hotel Bitoraj.












Up at 8 for a relatively leisurely start to the day. Didn't have to be on the bus until 10:30. Despite some internet connection problems, I did get some work done on my blog (and later in the afternoon was actually able to post Days 3 & 4).

A member of the Fuzine band came along on the bus to serve as tour guide. We went first to the Vrelo Cave. (Vrelo means "spring" in Croatian.) The cave was discovered in 1950 when some limestone was being excavated. The cave is 300 meters long and is unusual in that it is level throughout making it the only handicapped-accessible cave in Europe. There were interesting formations and a deep spring at the back, 12 meters deep and incredibly clear.

We then drove a short distance (the bus driver is amazing as he maneuvered and turned on extremely narrow streets) to a small lavender farm. The plants are smaller (and, of course, the scale is smaller) than the Norfolk lavender farm I visited in England about 20 years ago.

But we enjoyed the fresh air, lovely surroundings, and opportunity to support the local economy. We were given free samples of a very light and refreshing lavender drink, but I opted against carrying a breakable bottle for the rest of the trip. Too bad, but practicality ruled. However, I did buy some crushed lavender which can be used for tea, bread, or for a soothing smell in the house.

The sign says "Selling Domestic Products." And the kids were cute.

We proceeded to the small town of Lic to visit the Ethnografska Zbeika Lic, the Ethnic Museum of Lic. It was started by a local resident who, along with his brother, thought the town’s history should be preserved so created the museum. It was small, easy to cover in 30 to 45 minutes – my kind of vacation museum! Here is our guide for the morning, a volunteer from the local band, translating for the museum founder as he described the contents of the museum, which included a beautifully-done piece of embroidery.

The bus took us to the far side of the man-made lake (opposite the town and our hotels) where members of the local band had been roasting a pig and lamb for hours. The pig was off the spit and cut up by the time we arrived, but the lamb was still cooking.

While I love lamb, I prefer not seeing my food look so much like the animal it was. Hypocritical, I know. (And I did enjoy the lamb.)

In addition to the pork and lamb, they barbecued sausages and a ground meat mixture (looked something like hamburger but was better). And the women of the band did the usual kitchen work. . . .

Along with bread, a few tomatoes, onions, and a paprika spread, that was lunch. It was delicious, but I don’t think I have ever eaten such a quantity of meat at one meal. Quite amazing. Then the Fuzine band presented us with their “surprise:” at least 20 different kinds if homemade desserts, I sampled at least 6 to 8 of them! (Weight Watchers, forgive me – for I knew exactly what I did!).

Helen and I decided we needed some exercise so walked back to town/our hotel – all of about ¾ mile on a path running alongside the lake.

Helen then decided to bathe and rest while I used this free time to visit the tourist office, grocery store, and post office.

Then it was time to walk over to the athletic field where the concert was to be held. The Fuzine band played several numbers first. Then the two bands played several songs together, including, of course, the war horse number, Stars and Stripes Forever. The Fuzine piccolo player, a teenager, was quite amazingly good, nimble fingers flying.

The Fuzine band took the stage for three pieces, then Star of the North began their concert.

By 9 p.m., midway through their presentation, a warm day had turned chilly, and I hadn’t taken my coat along so I abandoned the concert and returned to the hotel room. When Helen came in half an hour later, she was freezing, had been fighting off mosquitoes, and squinting from trying to read her music in the dark. The difficulties of being an artiste!!

We went downstairs to the hotel restaurant for a late dinner which became even later when the hotel musician, an older man who played keyboard and sang classics – in the styles of their originators, like Louis Armstrong and Ray Charles, performed. He was delightful but at 11 p.m. I left to return to the room and, at midnight, finally get to bed.

Hungary & Croatia -- Day 4

Despite not going to sleep until after midnight, I awoke at 5 a.m. Not able to get back to sleep, I got up at 6 a.m. (!!) and went to the lobby to download yesterday’s pictures onto the computer and check e-mail. When breakfast began being served at 7 a.m., I participated and then went back to the room to pack. Luggage to the bus at 8:30 for a 9 a.m. departure, which we actually made.

Today was mostly driving – a very long day on the bus. So it’s appropriate to show a picture of the bus here. They’re really nice vehicles but spending 7 hours on it today tested my patience.

One and a quarter of those hours were spent sitting at the Croatian border. Since there were no other buses behind us, the crossing guards did their diligent job, collecting and checking individual passports. Ah, well. . . .

We arrived at Delnice at 4:30, were greeted by the Delnice brass band,

and then given an aperitif of the area’s famed blueberry liqueur. It was actually quite good.

The Star of the North concert is part of the celebration of the city’s parks and of the local band’s 100^th anniversary. There were a number of activities ongoing. A miniature “4-H” exhibit showed rabbits, chickens, pigeons, and goats. At the rabbit exhibit I met 11 year old Paula and her 12 year old friend Matea who were showing animals. They spoke a little English and seemed to like following me around.

People were selling local crafts and the blueberry liqueur. Rides in a horse-drawn cart were provided to children who also were playing on the park playground equipment while the adults listened to the variety of entertainment provided on the bandstand. The setting was a GORGEOUS park with wonderful tall trees. All in all a fun event.

Later Paula, Matea, and I were joined by 8-year old Marianne. Here are the four of us "good buddies" and a picture of Paula with the Star of the North pin I gave her.

I promised Paula I would put the pictures on my Facebook page. Guess she’ll figure out how to get there.

The concert went well. For some reason (the concrete underfoot, the trees above), the acoustics were quite good for an outdoor concert where people are standing on all sides of the band. And the setting was quite lovely.

When the concert was over, dinner was provided in the hotel, a buffet with a variety of food. Socializing lasted until 9:30 when the bus took us to the neighboring town of Fuzine where we were put up in a large hotel and four smaller guest houses. It looks like a charming town; hope we get a little time to explore.

Hungary & Croatia -- Day 3

Slept well, and long, last night. Alarm didn’t wake me so Helen had to. It’s nice, feeling really refreshed.

The new bus arrived along with Helmut, our new bus driver. Loaded everything up and were on the road at 9:10 a.m. We made only one fast pit stop but were still late for our appointment with the Budapest city guide. It seems as if most of our bus journeys are taking longer than planned.

The local guide accompanied us for a two-hour tour of Buda, named after the brother of 5^th century ruler Attila, and Pest, which means flat – and it is. Buda is larger, having 17 of the 23 city districts, while Pest has only 6. The entire city is approximately 520 square kilometers. Our guide said that all of the bridges across the Danube River were destroyed by the Nazis during World War II. Many of the bridges we saw are built in an earlier 19^th century style so either were not destroyed or were rebuilt to earlier plans. A question to research. . . .

There are many lovely and impressive buildings, including the Royal Palace. The Palace has had many incarnations. There is reference to building a castle in 1255, but that might have been at a different place. About 1400 Sigismund of Luxembourg built a Gothic palace on the site. When the Turks captured Buda in 1541, the palace was used to stable horses. Eventually it fell into ruins until 1719 when a small palace was built on those ruins. That was expanded upon by Marie Theresa who, in 1749, built a vast palace of 203 rooms. That complex was destroyed in 1849 by Hungarian insurgents. In 1891 rebuilding began with construction completed in 1905. That is largely the Palace seen today.


The Parliament building was built in 1904 in neo-Gothic style. It is HUGE, its 698 rooms way beyond what is necessary for legislative needs. Indeed, it has two large wings, each for one of the two houses of government. Unfortunately, the government is now unicameral rendering one wing immediately obsolete. But from the outside, particularly the view from the Danube, it is quite beautiful and impressive.


The city is lovely with a number of parks and squares and tree-lined streets. Andrassy Avenue is 2½ kilometers long and has many lovely homes along it. In the 19^th century the street was made of wood so the noise of the horses’ hooves wouldn’t disturb the residents as streets made of stone might do. Budapest appears to utilize the Danube to enhance the livability of the city. I don’t know whether the river was ever primarily used for industry, but it certainly isn’t now. The Danube is the second largest river in Europe and flows through ten countries.

We drove almost to the top of Gellert Hill and exited the bus so we could see the “most beautiful view” in Budapest – looking down at the river and the city from the high point of the Citadel. Helen and I positioned ourselves for the obligatory photograph.

A piece of trivia: Gellert hill was named after St. Gellert, a Benedictine monk who was born around 980. He taught the son of King St. Stephen, who subsequently made him a bishop. He was killed in 1046 during a pagan revolt by being sealed in a barrel and thrown off the hill which now bears his name.

The Citadel is a Hapsburg fortress built in the 1850’s but never really used for military purposes. Since 1960 it has served as a leisure complex. At the top of Gellert Hill looking out over the city is Liberation Monument, a statue which the guide referred to as “lady liberty.” The monument commemorates liberation of Budapest by the Russian army. It is a woman on a pedestal which reaches 46 feet. After the fall of Communism, a figure of a Russian soldier at the base was moved elsewhere. Here’s one picture, taken upward from the base, and a second taken from a boat out on the river.




















The tour finished and our hotel rooms now available, we went to the hotel to check in. There were a few glitches with which the beleaguered trip leader had to deal. Among the problems was Helen’s and my room which had a double bed instead of the requested twins. We were able to do a switch, and the other difficulties were resolved as well, but it all took time and energy.

Once we were established in our new room, Helen and I walked to Patriot or Heroes Square, just a few blocks from the hotel. She went to the adjacent art museum while I wandered around the square. It was built in 1896 as a millennium celebration of the founding of Hungary by seven chieftains who came to the area from Asia. Each chieftain is represented by an equestrian statue. Many improvements were made in Budapest during the Millennium Celebration as the city underwent major modernization.

There was a lot of activity on the square this late Saturday afternoon because of the T-Mobile-sponsored concert which was to take place later in the evening just two blocks away. Between the square and the concert stage vendors were setting up to be prepared for the crowds. The concert apparently was to celebrate something to do with the European Community. Not speaking or reading Hungarian made it difficult to figure out what was happening, but rock music being broadcast at ear-splitting level gave a hint.


From Patriot Square I walked into and through the adjacent park, Varosliget. Supposedly there is a zoo there, but I never found an entrance (although later saw its location on a map.) Did discover a fascinating art installation in the large pond next to the modern art building. There was a display of pictures showing that the pond had been drained for construction and placement of the pieces. I took a photo of the photograph.

While I’m not sure these items are “art,” they were fun to look at, which many people were doing. Because I was fascinated, I took a lot of pictures. In the background (of the outhouse "art") is Vajdahunyad Castle, not really a castle but a complex of buildings constructed in the 20^th century in different architectural styles.

Since it was after 5 p.m. by the time I finished seeing all the outdoor art, I hurried back to the hotel to get ready to go to dinner. Six of our group of 64 had decided to do a dinner river cruise on the Danube. I strongly felt that if I were in a city on the Danube, I should spend some amount of time on the river.

While waiting the hour+ between check-in and the cruise, we walked to St. Stephen’s Basilica, window shopping and taking in various sights along the way, including a fun statue of a policeman which begged for a picture and a segway tour just starting from the square.

The construction of the Basilica began in 1851 and was completed in 1905. It is dedicated to St. Stephen (or Istvan), the first Hungarian Christian King. He was born in 975 and baptized at age 10. In 1000 he was crowned the Catholic King of Hungary and worked to spread Christianity. He died in 1038 and was canonized in1083 by Pope Gregory VII.

The dome of the basilica stands 315 feet high and dominates the city. The interior is quite ornate with a statue of St. Stephen in the middle of the altar, and the interior of the dome is impressive. After briefly seeing the church, it was time to return to the ship’s office to get on the cruise.


The food on the dinner cruise was fine and the scenery interesting, so it was a worthwhile effort. And a 3-piece “gypsy” orchestra played, a little hokey perhaps but good fun. From the boat we saw many of the interesting buildings we’d previously observed, just from a slightly different angle.


From the river it is easy to see how Gellert Hill dominates the view. On its south slope is a grotto church based on Lourdes, which was built in 1926. Sealed in the 1950s by the Communist authorities, it was reopened in 1989. This photo, taken at dusk, is not the greatest.


The cruise ended at 9 p.m.. We'd hoped to see the city lit up for night, but we were a little early. The lights on this bridge came on just as we got off the boat.

After returning to the hotel. I got a cup of coffee, finished my journal, and wrote a postcard. Then I completed the blog entry for the previous day’s activities and posted it. It was very frustrating since the post showed several paragraphs appearing in a different typeface. I would return to edit, change the typeface, and post only to find the typeface for a different paragraph had changed. It seemed to be random with no reason apparent to me. There was one paragraph for which I corrected the typeface at least five times. The entre blog finally appeared to be correct, and I got to bed about midnight. I DO wish I understood what was happening and why. . . .

P. S. A Fun Fact (as David Letterman would say): Information picked up during the guided tour. The population of Hungary is 70% Roman Catholic, 20% Protestant, and 10% other. It does boast the 2^nd largest synagogue in the world (the largest being in New York City). The synagogue was built in 1854-9 and has 3 naves which can accommodate up to 3,000 worshippers.