Having now regained access to the Internet, I just posted 9 updates covering my recent activities in England, particularly on the canal boat. If you want to read in order, go to the post named "Ely and Narrowboat" and work backwards to here.
Be aware that I'm having a problem posting pictures so they're not well integrated with the text and sometimes jump around. It's been frustrating me a lot, and I'm trying to get help to figure it our. In the meantime, this is how it is.
I'm happy to be current but may lose Internet access again, depending on the Parish Holiday accommodations. So there may or may not be any posts in the next few days.
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Worcester - 8-31-10
Pictures (from the top)
Ye Olde Talbot Hotel
My bathroom, down steps
The Guildhall (and location of the Tourist Office)
The Severn and a lot of swans
Worcester Cathedral
My bathroom, down steps
The Guildhall (and location of the Tourist Office)
The Severn and a lot of swans
Worcester Cathedral
Tomb of King John
The Commandery Building & Museum
Friar Street -- If crookedness proves age, this building is authentic!
The Commandery Building & Museum
Friar Street -- If crookedness proves age, this building is authentic!
Took a taxi from the Lowesmoor Basin to Ye Olde Talbot Inn. Reasonable location, reasonable price, and in-room WiFi. All one could ask for. . . . The hotel is made up, it seems, of at least a couple of older buildings that have been cobbled together. From the reception desk to my room: stairway with 14 steps, left around steps, through a door and into the guest lounge. Across the lounge, through a door, go 4 feet, down 1 step, 4 more feet. Turn right, up 1 step, 12 feet, down 2 steps. Move through about 25 feet of hallway, up 3 steps, turn, up 3 steps, turn and go through a door, 8 more feet of hallway and there is my room. Quite a trip. And within my room, it's 3 steps down into the bathroom!
It's kind of amazing to realize that for 8 days there was no TV, radio, computer, or newspapers. Will need to do careful re-entry. It was really very pleasant to be "out of time" for that period. Now I'm back in the "real" world.
After arriving at the hotel I spent a little time trying to catch up on e-mail and my blog. Then I headed out to see some of Worcester. Went to the Tourist Office to get some information;I did decline the suggestion of a river cruise. The Tourist Office was in the Guildhall, one of those overdone buildings, probably Victorian. Stopped by a Boots Chemist (drugstore) to pick up some cold medications since I'm sure a cold is here; hope it's short-lived. Then went to the train station to doublecheck on the time for tomorrow's train to Southampton.
By that time I'd spent about an hour in the crowded shopping district. After 8 days of peace, quiet, and few people, the number of people and effort of being an on-foot tourist were wearing me down. So I headed for the river and walked along it to reach Worcester Cathedral. It's the burial place of King John, the infamous king against whom the Magna Carta was created. Arthur, older brother of King Henry VIII and first husband of Katherine of Aragon, is also buried here.
From the Cathedral I went to the Commandery, a building which has been in use since the late 1400s. It has been set up to tell the story of what was going on at 6 different time periods in the life of the building. It was interesting, but confusing. There need to be some better presentation techniques. One of the time periods covered was that of the English Civil War since the Battle of Worcester was the final victory of Cromwell over the King. After a couple of hours there, I walked down Friar Street, where my hotel is located, and which has, according to the tourist office, the largest number of old structures in the city.
Returned to the hotel, did a bit more blog catch-up, and then went out for some dinner. It's different, having to be responsible again for my own food. Now I'm back writing this, having caught up on the canal trip blogs. Since I don't know what computer availability will be in my parish holiday lodgings, I suppose I might fall behind again. Ah, well. Since the pictures are no longer so well integrated into the blog, it isn't as useful for me as the permanent record of my trip although I still enjoy sharing what's happening.
It's kind of amazing to realize that for 8 days there was no TV, radio, computer, or newspapers. Will need to do careful re-entry. It was really very pleasant to be "out of time" for that period. Now I'm back in the "real" world.
After arriving at the hotel I spent a little time trying to catch up on e-mail and my blog. Then I headed out to see some of Worcester. Went to the Tourist Office to get some information;I did decline the suggestion of a river cruise. The Tourist Office was in the Guildhall, one of those overdone buildings, probably Victorian. Stopped by a Boots Chemist (drugstore) to pick up some cold medications since I'm sure a cold is here; hope it's short-lived. Then went to the train station to doublecheck on the time for tomorrow's train to Southampton.
By that time I'd spent about an hour in the crowded shopping district. After 8 days of peace, quiet, and few people, the number of people and effort of being an on-foot tourist were wearing me down. So I headed for the river and walked along it to reach Worcester Cathedral. It's the burial place of King John, the infamous king against whom the Magna Carta was created. Arthur, older brother of King Henry VIII and first husband of Katherine of Aragon, is also buried here.
From the Cathedral I went to the Commandery, a building which has been in use since the late 1400s. It has been set up to tell the story of what was going on at 6 different time periods in the life of the building. It was interesting, but confusing. There need to be some better presentation techniques. One of the time periods covered was that of the English Civil War since the Battle of Worcester was the final victory of Cromwell over the King. After a couple of hours there, I walked down Friar Street, where my hotel is located, and which has, according to the tourist office, the largest number of old structures in the city.
Returned to the hotel, did a bit more blog catch-up, and then went out for some dinner. It's different, having to be responsible again for my own food. Now I'm back writing this, having caught up on the canal trip blogs. Since I don't know what computer availability will be in my parish holiday lodgings, I suppose I might fall behind again. Ah, well. Since the pictures are no longer so well integrated into the blog, it isn't as useful for me as the permanent record of my trip although I still enjoy sharing what's happening.
Narrowboat -- Monday, 8/30
Pictures (from the top):
Stourport Basin -- 2 staircase locks to get down to the River Severn
Elevenses -- Coffee with homemade "biscuits" (cookies)
Lincombe Weir, which then requires there to be Lincombe Lock
Gillian carrying out the relatively easy river lock duties
Bigger boats than we've been used to seeing
Worchester Cathedral from the Severn River under the Worcester Bridge
Into Lowesmoor Basin marina
Katie's final mooring for my trip
Gillian carrying out the relatively easy river lock duties
Bigger boats than we've been used to seeing
Worchester Cathedral from the Severn River under the Worcester Bridge
Into Lowesmoor Basin marina
Katie's final mooring for my trip
The last day of narrowboat cruising. It’s a little sad, but I think I’m ready to move on to different adventures. The weather was gorgeous today which was very nice. Not particularly warm temperatures but very sunny and blue skies.
At breakfast Michael was apologizing for the many used tissues in the trash required for him to clean up the bathroom because water dripped off his elbows onto the floor when he shaved. Daughter Gillian pointed out that there was a bath mat he could have used. “Oh, no,” he said, “then the mat would have been wet.” That resulted in general hilarity as everyone pointed out, using almost identical words, that a bath mat was intended to soak up water. Well -- maybe it was one of those things where one had to be there. . . . But we enjoyed it.
At 9:30 we took off, but there were delays at the three locks (one single, two staircase) between the canal and the River Severn so we didn’t start down the Severn until 10:40. It was a bit strange to be on a wide body of water – perhaps somewhat similar to the Mississippi at St. Paul. There were several locks on the river, but they are double beam, able to take larger cruisers, and are operated hydraulically by a lock operator. Easy, but boring…. Manmade weirs were created on the river to back up water to assure a more consistent river level and then locks put in so boats could navigate around the weirs.
Along the way we passed the unused locks into the Droitwich Barge Canal which has been closed but is in the process of being restored. When completed, it will provide another way between the Severn and the Worcester and Birmingham Canal. I spent much of the river cruise either on the back with Mike at the tiller or in the very front, enjoying the sun and relaxation. We stopped just outside Worcester at a public wharf alongside the Worcester Race Course for a ploughman’s lunch, the first I’ve had this trip. Since Gillian had a wide selection of cheeses, it was better than most pub ploughman’s.
As we reached our destination, there was a wonderful view of an ornamental railroad bridge and then the Worcester Cathedral from the river. Hope to visit the Cathedral tomorrow. We had to wait to enter the Diglis Locks (wide beam so can take two narrowboats at the same time) which get one from the River Severn onto the Worcester & Birmingham Canal. Two narrowboat locks later (now going up again), and we reached the Lowesmoor Basin and our mooring for the night. I walked to the chandlery shop for the marina to buy a few last canal postcards and returned to Katie to write them and this.
A bit after 7:30 we began our last dinner: gammon (ham) steak and roast potatoes. I’d treated myself to a glass of wine before dinner, and we finished the bottle so I had a glass and a half with dinner. As a result I’m writing this slightly tiddly. . . . Still don’t have definite accommodation in Worcester (the best possible hotels weren’t answering their telephones), but I will go to the tourist office and throw myself on their mercy. Usually they are very helpful.
Must pack and otherwise get organized this evening in order to be prepared to leave the boat at 9:30 tomorrow morning, after eating breakfast.
I had just finished this and closed down the computer when I heard the sound of fireworks. We all gathered at the side hatch and stuck our heads out to watch the fireworks, apparently being done near the river. We couldn’t see the very low ones, but the high ones were clearly visible and quite lovely reflected in the water of the marina. Don’t know what the occasion is. Today is August Bank Holiday Monday – but I’m not sure that’s a holiday worthy of fireworks. Maybe I’ll find out tomorrow. In any event, it made a fitting end to my narrowboat holiday.
At breakfast Michael was apologizing for the many used tissues in the trash required for him to clean up the bathroom because water dripped off his elbows onto the floor when he shaved. Daughter Gillian pointed out that there was a bath mat he could have used. “Oh, no,” he said, “then the mat would have been wet.” That resulted in general hilarity as everyone pointed out, using almost identical words, that a bath mat was intended to soak up water. Well -- maybe it was one of those things where one had to be there. . . . But we enjoyed it.
At 9:30 we took off, but there were delays at the three locks (one single, two staircase) between the canal and the River Severn so we didn’t start down the Severn until 10:40. It was a bit strange to be on a wide body of water – perhaps somewhat similar to the Mississippi at St. Paul. There were several locks on the river, but they are double beam, able to take larger cruisers, and are operated hydraulically by a lock operator. Easy, but boring…. Manmade weirs were created on the river to back up water to assure a more consistent river level and then locks put in so boats could navigate around the weirs.
Along the way we passed the unused locks into the Droitwich Barge Canal which has been closed but is in the process of being restored. When completed, it will provide another way between the Severn and the Worcester and Birmingham Canal. I spent much of the river cruise either on the back with Mike at the tiller or in the very front, enjoying the sun and relaxation. We stopped just outside Worcester at a public wharf alongside the Worcester Race Course for a ploughman’s lunch, the first I’ve had this trip. Since Gillian had a wide selection of cheeses, it was better than most pub ploughman’s.
As we reached our destination, there was a wonderful view of an ornamental railroad bridge and then the Worcester Cathedral from the river. Hope to visit the Cathedral tomorrow. We had to wait to enter the Diglis Locks (wide beam so can take two narrowboats at the same time) which get one from the River Severn onto the Worcester & Birmingham Canal. Two narrowboat locks later (now going up again), and we reached the Lowesmoor Basin and our mooring for the night. I walked to the chandlery shop for the marina to buy a few last canal postcards and returned to Katie to write them and this.
A bit after 7:30 we began our last dinner: gammon (ham) steak and roast potatoes. I’d treated myself to a glass of wine before dinner, and we finished the bottle so I had a glass and a half with dinner. As a result I’m writing this slightly tiddly. . . . Still don’t have definite accommodation in Worcester (the best possible hotels weren’t answering their telephones), but I will go to the tourist office and throw myself on their mercy. Usually they are very helpful.
Must pack and otherwise get organized this evening in order to be prepared to leave the boat at 9:30 tomorrow morning, after eating breakfast.
I had just finished this and closed down the computer when I heard the sound of fireworks. We all gathered at the side hatch and stuck our heads out to watch the fireworks, apparently being done near the river. We couldn’t see the very low ones, but the high ones were clearly visible and quite lovely reflected in the water of the marina. Don’t know what the occasion is. Today is August Bank Holiday Monday – but I’m not sure that’s a holiday worthy of fireworks. Maybe I’ll find out tomorrow. In any event, it made a fitting end to my narrowboat holiday.
Narrowboat -- Sunday, 8/29
Pictures -- from topCookley Tunnel -- 65 yards long
Laughing Sands Road Bridge seen through Laughing Sands Viaduct (railway)
Laughing Sands lock -- sharp left turn
Kidderminster Lock -- in the middle of the city
"Old" Carousel at the Stourport Fun Fair
River Severn upstream from bridge at Stourport
Sunday Roast Dinner (lamb)
Sunday Roast Dinner (lamb)
Since water had been taken on and trash taken off last night and Skipper Mike decided to forgo breakfast at the table for breakfast while steering, we got off to an early, 8:15 a.m., start. Because Gillian was still serving breakfast, Mike had to handle the first couple of locks on his own – totally doable, but a bit more time consuming. The morning alternated, often within the space of five minutes, from sunshine to heavy rain to clouds to light rain to very strong winds. It was a time, as far as I was concerned, to sit inside and enjoy the passing countryside. I also finished reading a book I’d started the second day of the trip entitled English Canals Explained. It did help me understand some of the details of canal and lock history and operation.
We went through two tunnels during the morning; Dunsley was 25 yards long and Cookley was 65 yards long. Neither seemed that different from some of the wide bridges we’ve gone under – except that the sides and ceiling were hewn rock. Both were cut from live rock and had the towpaths inside the tunnel. Some other tunnels on the canal system did not have towpaths inside them so in the days of horse-drawn canal boats it was necessary to pole or leg the boat through the tunnel. Legging involved lying on one’s back on a board placed across the boat; then “walking” along the side or roof of the tunnel to propel the boat. It does sound like a lot of work.
We reached Kidderminster, the usual lunch stop, for lunch – just an hour later than usual. The lock in the middle of Kidderminster, a fair-sized city, is most unusual. As one departs the lock going down, the boat is under a very wide bridge which is a thoroughfare going through the city. So not just one road, but a major intersection is overhead. Weaver’s Wharf, directly after the lock/bridge and where we stopped for lunch, is a commercial area; we were moored right next to a Tesco’s (large chain grocery store) which allowed Gillian to do a spot of shopping.
The afternoon trip was enjoyable – bright sunshine and lovely scenery. The Falling Sands railroad bridge which was quite high was immediately followed by the Falling Sands Bridge which is very low; made an interesting picture. Almost immediately came the Falling Sands Lock which was interesting because the lock was right after a 90 degree left turn in the canal. Scenic but difficult steering.
We arrived at our night mooring at Stourport-on-Severn at 5:45 p.m., almost on schedule. I went out for an exploratory walk with Michael. We went to look at the River Severn and stopped by a Fun Fair on the river which had a carousel that, of course, I had to ride and take a number of pictures. It was in rather rough shape; needs some loving care. Returned at 7 p.m. to the Katie and good smells of our Sunday dinner cooking. Lamb roast with the appropriate side dishes.
After dessert and coffee all headed for their cabins. Tomorrow is the last day of sailing; will arrive at our final destination tomorrow although will spend the night on the boat departing on Tuesday morning.
We went through two tunnels during the morning; Dunsley was 25 yards long and Cookley was 65 yards long. Neither seemed that different from some of the wide bridges we’ve gone under – except that the sides and ceiling were hewn rock. Both were cut from live rock and had the towpaths inside the tunnel. Some other tunnels on the canal system did not have towpaths inside them so in the days of horse-drawn canal boats it was necessary to pole or leg the boat through the tunnel. Legging involved lying on one’s back on a board placed across the boat; then “walking” along the side or roof of the tunnel to propel the boat. It does sound like a lot of work.
We reached Kidderminster, the usual lunch stop, for lunch – just an hour later than usual. The lock in the middle of Kidderminster, a fair-sized city, is most unusual. As one departs the lock going down, the boat is under a very wide bridge which is a thoroughfare going through the city. So not just one road, but a major intersection is overhead. Weaver’s Wharf, directly after the lock/bridge and where we stopped for lunch, is a commercial area; we were moored right next to a Tesco’s (large chain grocery store) which allowed Gillian to do a spot of shopping.
The afternoon trip was enjoyable – bright sunshine and lovely scenery. The Falling Sands railroad bridge which was quite high was immediately followed by the Falling Sands Bridge which is very low; made an interesting picture. Almost immediately came the Falling Sands Lock which was interesting because the lock was right after a 90 degree left turn in the canal. Scenic but difficult steering.
We arrived at our night mooring at Stourport-on-Severn at 5:45 p.m., almost on schedule. I went out for an exploratory walk with Michael. We went to look at the River Severn and stopped by a Fun Fair on the river which had a carousel that, of course, I had to ride and take a number of pictures. It was in rather rough shape; needs some loving care. Returned at 7 p.m. to the Katie and good smells of our Sunday dinner cooking. Lamb roast with the appropriate side dishes.
After dessert and coffee all headed for their cabins. Tomorrow is the last day of sailing; will arrive at our final destination tomorrow although will spend the night on the boat departing on Tuesday morning.
Narrowboat -- Saturday, 8/28
Pictures -- from the top
Mike's dessert -- Gillian gave him two meringues, but all of our desserts (or pudding, as it's called) were quite impressive, and tasty.
Entering the "very narrow cutting"
Downhill lock manuevers
Bratch Locks -- the bottom of three. This lock has a lockmaster who is pictured along with a commercial boat.
Botterham Staircase Locks
Observed on my towpath walk: a cridket game, heron up close and personal, and swans in the canal next to the towpath.
Gailey, where we spent last night, has a 3-story round former toll house, which is now used as a souvenir shop. Unfortunately it was closed both last night and this morning. I don’t need any canal trinkets but did want a few more postcards. Plus it would have been fun to see inside. Ah, well. We began moving at 9:15 because there is a long distance to cover today. The first 12 miles or so have no locks so we should make reasonable time.
I sat for quite a while at the back with Mike at the tiller enjoying the views of the countryside, including horses and cows as well as fields. Some sunshine, some cloud but a fairly chilly breeze continually. A bit of adventure came as we reached what the map describes as a “very narrow cutting.” With no warning and no signals, one enters what is basically a single lane of canal, but boats are going in both directions; this lasts for about a half mile. Because the canal was being cut through rock (lovely sandstone cliffs off to one side), apparently it was deemed too difficult to build a wider canal. We met another boat partway through. There are several pulloff places if a boat can fit into them; the Katie couldn’t, but the boat we were meeting was able to compress into one as we slowly squeezed by.
At Autherly Junction the Shropshire Union Canal comes in from the northwest and just a bit further on at Aldersley Junction the Birmingham Main Line Canal heads off to the east toward Wolverhampton. On that stretch of about 2 miles between Aldersley and Wolverhampton, there are 21 locks with a total rise of 132 feet. I now appreciate the amount of time and effort that would be expended to cover that 2 miles.
It wasn’t until 12:30 that we came to Compton Lock, our first of the day and the first on this journey where we’re going down rather than up. From now to the end of the trip we’ll be on descending locks. Those go a bit faster since emptying the lock is quicker than filling it (think of bathtubs). But the skipper has to get onto the boat to take it out of the lock by climbing a ladder on the side of the lock down to the roof of the boat and then scrambling down to the steering area. Apparently the addition of the ladder is a modern health and safety requirement; originally boatmen would have just jumped down.
We stopped at a boatyard to fuel up and have the tanks pumped out. The wastewater from sinks and showers goes directly into the canal, but toilet waste is held in a tank onboard and must be removed one or two times on a trip. Figuring the locations and seeing that such things are done are responsibilities of the skipper/boat master. (He also, as noted earlier, washes dinner dishes, and he cleans the bathrooms and guest quarters while we’re eating breakfast. A narrowboat hotel skipper has varied responsibilities. . .).
Light rain came and went. Finally about 3 p.m. we approached Bratch Lock, which is comprised of three separate locks in a flight, not a staircase. In a flight the locks are close together but each operates individually; Bratch is unusual, however, in that the water supply is in side ponds rather than ponds between the locks – so they look very close together (like a staircase). Just a short distance, and one lock, away is the Botterham Staircase Lock. This is a lock where the lower gate of the upper lock is also the upper gate of the lower lock. The lower lock always fills with water that comes from the top lock. Both of these types of locks can be confusing to amateur boaters and can take a substantial amount of time, even with experienced crew.
Because the weather had generally cleared by the time we reached Bratch Lock, I decided to get some exercise so walked the tow path, going about 4 miles in two hours time. The path was quite nice, wide and graveled, but I went slowly to enjoy the sights (and to put on and off sunglasses, rain hat, and jacket – as the weather constantly changed). As I walked by several locks, I was intrigued by the interesting shapes and styles of bypass weirs, needed to pass excess water from the higher to lower levels. I also saw wildlife – a blue heron which stood stock still within 15 feet of me as I slowly got out my camera to take a picture. Two swans (we’ve seen many) were feeding at the side of the canal just a foot away and undisturbed by my walking by. Nearby was a Canada goose; not as many here as at home, but people seem to find them as much of a nuisance. Across the canal was a cricket match with loud and enthusiastic cricketeers with a couple of boaters on the tow path serving as audience. The part of the path within the town of Swindon has some interesting informational plaques installed telling about the history of the area. All in all, it was a good walk.
By the time I got picked up by the Katie it was obvious that we would only reach Greenforge, the original destination for tonight, rather than Kinver, the destination newly established from the Birmingham office. Since it was after 6:30 when we reached Greenforge, there is no way we would have made it to Kinver before 9:30 – way too late for dinner and settling in for the night. So we’ll need to start early tomorrow and push ahead.
I sat for quite a while at the back with Mike at the tiller enjoying the views of the countryside, including horses and cows as well as fields. Some sunshine, some cloud but a fairly chilly breeze continually. A bit of adventure came as we reached what the map describes as a “very narrow cutting.” With no warning and no signals, one enters what is basically a single lane of canal, but boats are going in both directions; this lasts for about a half mile. Because the canal was being cut through rock (lovely sandstone cliffs off to one side), apparently it was deemed too difficult to build a wider canal. We met another boat partway through. There are several pulloff places if a boat can fit into them; the Katie couldn’t, but the boat we were meeting was able to compress into one as we slowly squeezed by.
At Autherly Junction the Shropshire Union Canal comes in from the northwest and just a bit further on at Aldersley Junction the Birmingham Main Line Canal heads off to the east toward Wolverhampton. On that stretch of about 2 miles between Aldersley and Wolverhampton, there are 21 locks with a total rise of 132 feet. I now appreciate the amount of time and effort that would be expended to cover that 2 miles.
It wasn’t until 12:30 that we came to Compton Lock, our first of the day and the first on this journey where we’re going down rather than up. From now to the end of the trip we’ll be on descending locks. Those go a bit faster since emptying the lock is quicker than filling it (think of bathtubs). But the skipper has to get onto the boat to take it out of the lock by climbing a ladder on the side of the lock down to the roof of the boat and then scrambling down to the steering area. Apparently the addition of the ladder is a modern health and safety requirement; originally boatmen would have just jumped down.
We stopped at a boatyard to fuel up and have the tanks pumped out. The wastewater from sinks and showers goes directly into the canal, but toilet waste is held in a tank onboard and must be removed one or two times on a trip. Figuring the locations and seeing that such things are done are responsibilities of the skipper/boat master. (He also, as noted earlier, washes dinner dishes, and he cleans the bathrooms and guest quarters while we’re eating breakfast. A narrowboat hotel skipper has varied responsibilities. . .).
Light rain came and went. Finally about 3 p.m. we approached Bratch Lock, which is comprised of three separate locks in a flight, not a staircase. In a flight the locks are close together but each operates individually; Bratch is unusual, however, in that the water supply is in side ponds rather than ponds between the locks – so they look very close together (like a staircase). Just a short distance, and one lock, away is the Botterham Staircase Lock. This is a lock where the lower gate of the upper lock is also the upper gate of the lower lock. The lower lock always fills with water that comes from the top lock. Both of these types of locks can be confusing to amateur boaters and can take a substantial amount of time, even with experienced crew.
Because the weather had generally cleared by the time we reached Bratch Lock, I decided to get some exercise so walked the tow path, going about 4 miles in two hours time. The path was quite nice, wide and graveled, but I went slowly to enjoy the sights (and to put on and off sunglasses, rain hat, and jacket – as the weather constantly changed). As I walked by several locks, I was intrigued by the interesting shapes and styles of bypass weirs, needed to pass excess water from the higher to lower levels. I also saw wildlife – a blue heron which stood stock still within 15 feet of me as I slowly got out my camera to take a picture. Two swans (we’ve seen many) were feeding at the side of the canal just a foot away and undisturbed by my walking by. Nearby was a Canada goose; not as many here as at home, but people seem to find them as much of a nuisance. Across the canal was a cricket match with loud and enthusiastic cricketeers with a couple of boaters on the tow path serving as audience. The part of the path within the town of Swindon has some interesting informational plaques installed telling about the history of the area. All in all, it was a good walk.
By the time I got picked up by the Katie it was obvious that we would only reach Greenforge, the original destination for tonight, rather than Kinver, the destination newly established from the Birmingham office. Since it was after 6:30 when we reached Greenforge, there is no way we would have made it to Kinver before 9:30 – way too late for dinner and settling in for the night. So we’ll need to start early tomorrow and push ahead.
Narrowboat -- Friday, 8/27
Pictures -- which again got totally messed up with one deleted and a couple moved to the bottom (heaven knows why or how; can't do it when I want to!)
From the top (I think/hope):
Katie on the Trent & Mersey Canal in front of the entrance to the Staffordshire and Worcestshire Canal.
The bridge showing how the bricks were set with edges so horses hooves could go over easily.
Entering the S & W Canal
Aqueduct over the River Trent; the Katie is floating on the canal on a water bridge going over the river.
As I was walking the towpath, there was the peaceful scene of a country church on the left side of the canal; picture missing is of the right side with traffic rushing by on the motorway. Made an interesting contrast; too bad you can't see it.
Pictures below:
Kay replanting the flower boxes which decorate the top of the Katie. Even though a paying passenger, Moms do such things.
Me getting into (could be out of) Katie using the side hatch. That gets closed at night or in bad weather.
The toll house at Gailey; now a tourist shop. This was our overnight spot.
Woke up to sunshine and cloudless skies – well deserved after yesterday’s all day downpour. After breakfast (porridge) the water tanks were filled, the trash dumped, and we began the day’s cruising. Great Haywood, where we spent the night is the conjunction of two canals. We’ve been on the Trent and Mersey which continues northward, but we turned west and south to take the Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal – and isn’t that a mouthful?
We started out by going on another aqueduct which went over the River Trent, now substantially narrower then when we started out on it last Monday. I really am taken with the idea of aqueducts – one body of water crossing over on top of another body of water. Today was mostly rural, except for the portion in which the canal ran along the M6 motorway. Actually, even there the canal, the tow path, and one side of the canal were bucolic; on the other was traffic rushing by at 65 mph.
I walked several portions of today’s travels – 4½ miles divided into three separate walks. Because I must stay ahead of the boat, I found the best strategy was to get off as the Katie waited to begin going through a lock. That gave me a head start so I wouldn’t have trouble staying ahead of her 3 to 4 mph pace. The last 1¼ mile stretch had four locks on it so I ended up waiting 20 minutes at the last lock. Since the weather was lovely and I could be amused watching boats lock through, that wasn’t a problem.
We started out by going on another aqueduct which went over the River Trent, now substantially narrower then when we started out on it last Monday. I really am taken with the idea of aqueducts – one body of water crossing over on top of another body of water. Today was mostly rural, except for the portion in which the canal ran along the M6 motorway. Actually, even there the canal, the tow path, and one side of the canal were bucolic; on the other was traffic rushing by at 65 mph.
I walked several portions of today’s travels – 4½ miles divided into three separate walks. Because I must stay ahead of the boat, I found the best strategy was to get off as the Katie waited to begin going through a lock. That gave me a head start so I wouldn’t have trouble staying ahead of her 3 to 4 mph pace. The last 1¼ mile stretch had four locks on it so I ended up waiting 20 minutes at the last lock. Since the weather was lovely and I could be amused watching boats lock through, that wasn’t a problem.
The former toll house at Gailey, our stop for the night, had been turned into a tourist shop which unfortunately wasn't open. It was three stories high so the toll taker could see up and down the canal to make sure no boats snuck through without paying.
Apparently I wasn’t the only one who was tired (although had walked the farthest) since passengers and staff all headed off to our bedrooms at 9:30. It will be an early night.
Apparently I wasn’t the only one who was tired (although had walked the farthest) since passengers and staff all headed off to our bedrooms at 9:30. It will be an early night.
Narrowboat -- Thur., 8/26
Pictures -- Manuevering is often difficult. Remember the boat is 70 feet long!All the boats on the canal are licensed to be there which allows them access to water and garbage disposal. System seems to work.
It rained all night (as far as I could tell; slept rather soundly) and was still raining hard in the morning and through much of the day. We started off at 9:35 and immediately encountered three locks in quick succession. Given the rain and chill, I didn’t feel the need to participate. Only another two locks, somewhat separated, and then a long stretch of 5 miles with no locks.
At one point we had a turn into a bridge/tunnel that was quite long and very narrow, only one boat width. One couldn’t see ahead to determine whether another boat was heading toward our boat.. Meeting in the middle would have required great boatmanship in order to back out a long distance. I think a traffic light of some sort would be a good idea. But I guess that wouldn’t be in accord with TRADITION.
We had to stop for water in late morning. There are water faucets installed along the canals (and noted on the canal maps) from which all boaters are free to fill their water tanks. We just had to wait our turn, haul out the hose, and fill up the two tanks. Actually, because others were waiting, Mike decided not to fill fully the second tank; will do that later. Trash was disposed of as well; those locations are also well known and used.
We stopped for lunch near the town of Rugeley. It wasn’t especially scenic but was near a large supermarket, and Gillian needed to buy a few supplies. I took the opportunity to walk a little and find a postbox for some postcards I’d written. Unfortunately I didn’t find a place to purchase any more since the rain provides a good reason to stay in and write. In wandering around the town, I found a coffee shop with free WiFi; unfortunately I hadn’t carried my mini-netbook along with me. Too bad; I’m feeling a bit e-mail deprived after 3½ days of no communication. It’s probably good for me. Certainly just reading, doing needlework, and relaxing is undoubtedly good for my psyche. And that’s about all one can do while cruising along – particularly when it’s chilly and rainy.
We arrived at our mooring spot at Great Heywood at 5:45 p.m. While it wasn’t actively raining, it was damp and chilly so I decided against a walk even though I need the exercise. I’m eating too much also. Weight Watchers would not be proud. However, I am on holiday. Dinner ended at 9:30, and I headed to my cabin to finish writing this and get to bed a little earlier (she says optimistically).
At one point we had a turn into a bridge/tunnel that was quite long and very narrow, only one boat width. One couldn’t see ahead to determine whether another boat was heading toward our boat.. Meeting in the middle would have required great boatmanship in order to back out a long distance. I think a traffic light of some sort would be a good idea. But I guess that wouldn’t be in accord with TRADITION.
We had to stop for water in late morning. There are water faucets installed along the canals (and noted on the canal maps) from which all boaters are free to fill their water tanks. We just had to wait our turn, haul out the hose, and fill up the two tanks. Actually, because others were waiting, Mike decided not to fill fully the second tank; will do that later. Trash was disposed of as well; those locations are also well known and used.
We stopped for lunch near the town of Rugeley. It wasn’t especially scenic but was near a large supermarket, and Gillian needed to buy a few supplies. I took the opportunity to walk a little and find a postbox for some postcards I’d written. Unfortunately I didn’t find a place to purchase any more since the rain provides a good reason to stay in and write. In wandering around the town, I found a coffee shop with free WiFi; unfortunately I hadn’t carried my mini-netbook along with me. Too bad; I’m feeling a bit e-mail deprived after 3½ days of no communication. It’s probably good for me. Certainly just reading, doing needlework, and relaxing is undoubtedly good for my psyche. And that’s about all one can do while cruising along – particularly when it’s chilly and rainy.
We arrived at our mooring spot at Great Heywood at 5:45 p.m. While it wasn’t actively raining, it was damp and chilly so I decided against a walk even though I need the exercise. I’m eating too much also. Weight Watchers would not be proud. However, I am on holiday. Dinner ended at 9:30, and I headed to my cabin to finish writing this and get to bed a little earlier (she says optimistically).
Narrowboat -- Wed., 8/25
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Pictures --
Narrowboat Lock
Trusty lock crew -- Gillian, Michael, and Mike
Bags of cement in place to harden and improve the canal edge
Gillian in the kitchen (galley) -- not a lot of working space, but great food
Mile marker; I used it to gauge the lenth of my walk in the rain
After another full English breakfast (tomorrow cereal, I think) we headed off at 9:20. The weather was sunny and pleasant, and we quickly encountered locks. These are all single beam (narrow), and most are shallower than yesterday’s; the least rise (we’re still going up) was 3 feet.
Late morning we stopped at Burton Turn Marina, a large marina with a lot of boats moored, primarily traditional narrowboats. Recently built was a new complex with shops, a restaurant, pub, small grocery. I was able to buy some postcards of the canals but couldn’t mail those I’d written three days ago; no postbox. Proceeded on our way and went through the charming village of Alrewas looking at the beautiful gardens backing up to the canal and then stopped for lunch – leek and potato soup.
Moved through several more locks and stood with Mike at the tiller as we passed under a bridge with an unbelievably narrow opening. One can understand building locks only wide enough to accommodate the boats, but why a bridge opening should have the same dimensions is a question. Guess it keeps the captains in practice/on their toes. Mike pointed out the edge of the canal which looked to me like stone. It’s not. When repairs are needed, bags of concrete are piled together and left. The water seeps in, the concrete hardens, and eventually the bags dissolve. I thought the results looked good.
Shortly after I returned to the cabin, the rain began –first gentle, then coming down quite hard. That makes lock operation a little less fun. I supervised entirely from inside the cabin. We pulled into our night mooring at Fradley Junction a bit before 5 p.m. This is the junction of the Trent & Mersey Canal and the Coventry Canal. We’ll be continuing on the Trent & Mersey tomorrow.
I decided that, despite the rain, I had to get some exercise. Because Mike had pointed out the mile markers which appear, yes, every mile along the canals, I knew that if I went from marker to marker and returned, I’d have done a 2-mile walk, which I did. Wore my rain gear so stayed dry except for my feet; shoes were a bit damp by the time I returned. Decided to reward myself for the walk so stopped at The Swan, for a half pint of cider. It is a 200-year-old listed building so, really, I was just indulging my interest in historical structures. Had a lovely time chatting with a local before returning the short distance to the Katie and dinner.
Transferred pictures, wrote this, and am ready to head for bed. It is, after all, past 10 p.m.
Late morning we stopped at Burton Turn Marina, a large marina with a lot of boats moored, primarily traditional narrowboats. Recently built was a new complex with shops, a restaurant, pub, small grocery. I was able to buy some postcards of the canals but couldn’t mail those I’d written three days ago; no postbox. Proceeded on our way and went through the charming village of Alrewas looking at the beautiful gardens backing up to the canal and then stopped for lunch – leek and potato soup.
Moved through several more locks and stood with Mike at the tiller as we passed under a bridge with an unbelievably narrow opening. One can understand building locks only wide enough to accommodate the boats, but why a bridge opening should have the same dimensions is a question. Guess it keeps the captains in practice/on their toes. Mike pointed out the edge of the canal which looked to me like stone. It’s not. When repairs are needed, bags of concrete are piled together and left. The water seeps in, the concrete hardens, and eventually the bags dissolve. I thought the results looked good.
Shortly after I returned to the cabin, the rain began –first gentle, then coming down quite hard. That makes lock operation a little less fun. I supervised entirely from inside the cabin. We pulled into our night mooring at Fradley Junction a bit before 5 p.m. This is the junction of the Trent & Mersey Canal and the Coventry Canal. We’ll be continuing on the Trent & Mersey tomorrow.
I decided that, despite the rain, I had to get some exercise. Because Mike had pointed out the mile markers which appear, yes, every mile along the canals, I knew that if I went from marker to marker and returned, I’d have done a 2-mile walk, which I did. Wore my rain gear so stayed dry except for my feet; shoes were a bit damp by the time I returned. Decided to reward myself for the walk so stopped at The Swan, for a half pint of cider. It is a 200-year-old listed building so, really, I was just indulging my interest in historical structures. Had a lovely time chatting with a local before returning the short distance to the Katie and dinner.
Transferred pictures, wrote this, and am ready to head for bed. It is, after all, past 10 p.m.
Narrowboat -- Tues., 8/24
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Pictures -- At top, family of swans. We saw many swans along the way. Typically two adults had from two to five "babies" who are about as big as the parents, but still brownish.
Signpost as we left the River Trent and entered the Canal.
The first lock (Derwent Mouth Lock); was broadbeam so could take cruisers or two narrowboats.
The first lock (Derwent Mouth Lock); was broadbeam so could take cruisers or two narrowboats.
Woke up at 5 and couldn’t seem to go back to sleep so got up at 7, dressed, and went out for a 20-minute walk on the towpath. The day was bright and generally pleasant – but very windy. So windy that Mike, an expert boatman, had trouble getting away from the mooring.
After a full English breakfast (yes, my arteries are clogging, but it’s SO good) we began our journey at 9:45 a.m. on the River Trent. We continued on that for a short while until we reached the Trent & Mersey Canal. The first lock was the Derwent Mouth Lock, not a particularly huge one, but of course I took many pictures. During the day we went through seven locks, of which the deepest was Stinson Lock with a change of 12 feet, 4 inches (we’re going up so the water poured in on us – like being at the foot of a waterfall). The first six locks were double beam – wide enough for two narrowboats to go through at the same time. The last one, entering Burton Upon Trent, was the first single one. I’m learning a bit about how locks operate and the proper terminology.
A wonderful surprise of the day was that we were on several short aqueducts, including one over the small River Dove. Being on a canal boat and looking down at a river we were crossing some 20 feet or so below us was something I wanted to do but didn’t think was on any of the canals on this trip. So I was thrilled.
The weather was iffy all day. Sunshine, cloudiness, sprinkles, heavy rain – all occurring and reoccurring in no particular pattern – except that it often seemed to rain just as the crew had to get off the boat to deal with locks. The pace of travel is slow; at somewhere between 2 and 4 miles an hour, relaxation is enforced. We have elevenses and afternoon tea while on the move then stop and moor for lunch and dinner. All quite civilized. Food has been very good. I’m going to have to work at not eating. I will also need to get off and walk the towpath at the boat’s pace in order to get a bit of exercise but was fearful that if I did so today the rain would begin. At Burton Upon Trent we moored for dinner and the evening at 6:15 p.m. I took a 30 minute walk into town and along the towpath returning in time for the 7:30 dinner featuring salmon. Sat around the table eating and talking until after 9:30 when I returned to my room to write this and deal with the pictures I’ve taken during the last few days. Am trying to keep up – even if I can’t post to a blog for a while.
A wonderful surprise of the day was that we were on several short aqueducts, including one over the small River Dove. Being on a canal boat and looking down at a river we were crossing some 20 feet or so below us was something I wanted to do but didn’t think was on any of the canals on this trip. So I was thrilled.
The weather was iffy all day. Sunshine, cloudiness, sprinkles, heavy rain – all occurring and reoccurring in no particular pattern – except that it often seemed to rain just as the crew had to get off the boat to deal with locks. The pace of travel is slow; at somewhere between 2 and 4 miles an hour, relaxation is enforced. We have elevenses and afternoon tea while on the move then stop and moor for lunch and dinner. All quite civilized. Food has been very good. I’m going to have to work at not eating. I will also need to get off and walk the towpath at the boat’s pace in order to get a bit of exercise but was fearful that if I did so today the rain would begin. At Burton Upon Trent we moored for dinner and the evening at 6:15 p.m. I took a 30 minute walk into town and along the towpath returning in time for the 7:30 dinner featuring salmon. Sat around the table eating and talking until after 9:30 when I returned to my room to write this and deal with the pictures I’ve taken during the last few days. Am trying to keep up – even if I can’t post to a blog for a while.
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