Friday, March 30, 2012

Bali and Korea -- March 30, 2012

Dressed up! Panty hose for the first time this trip! Such sacrifices for Save the Children. . . .

SCF staff had arranged to meet me at the subway stop. Since I’ve been to this office at least twice previously, I think I could have found it but am always happy to accept assistance. We went to the conference room where staff from a variety of departments wandered in, many clutching their lunches to eat since the session was occurring during their lunch hour.

The portion of the May, 2011, fundraising TV telethon in which I “starred” was shown. I had not previously seen it since the on-line link to it I was given didn’t work (for me anyway). I now have a DVD of the show so can relive my 15-minutes of fame in Korea and being a reality show performer any time I want.


My oral presentation told the story summarized in the video with a little more detail.
The listeners were very gracious; the staff appears to be a very dedicated group – pretty much a requirement for working in a non-profit (NGO – non-governmental organization).








And most are quite young, also almost a requirement for what is a relatively low-paying job.
Only two of the staff at the training session were young men.





Afterwards the Director of Marketing and Communications and one of her staff took me to lunch at a traditional Korean restaurant (but I elected to sit at a table, not on the floor!). So, one more “eating” picture.

After a brief return to the SCF office to meet the Director, I went off on my own for a little sightseeing and shopping. The Gyeongbokgung subway station is very fancy and has art exhibited because it is the primary station for the primary tourist sites.

























Exiting the subway I took a picture of the palace entry. Didn’t go in because I have toured this palace several times on previous trips.

I was very pleased to see that the reconstruction of Gwanghwamun (the ceremonial gate to the palace) had been completed. My two previous trips to Seoul, it had been out of sight – behind scaffolding and plywood. This is the view from the inside.


In walking to the bookstore I saw this billboard which highlights ongoing issues between Korea and Japan. Dokdo is the Korean name for a hunk of rock in what Koreans call the East Sea. Japanese call the same body of water the Sea of Japan and have a Japanese name for the island. Uninhabited and not really significant in and of itself, the disputed ownership highlights Korea’s negative feelings, remembering years of Japanese colonialism, and Japan’s need to maintain its position.




This photo once again shows the Korean juxtaposition of traditional and modern as a guardhouse for the palace has as its backdrop a new office building.








Seoul Selection is a small bookstore that specializes in books about Korea in foreign languages, mostly English but also some French and German. They advertise in Korean Quarterly, the newspaper published in the Twin Cities for which I am a proofreader; so I want to support them. And they do have a good choice of interesting books.

After sitting, reading a bit, and making my selections, I moved on (with a heavier load) and spent a little time in InsaDong, a main tourist souvenir area, wanting to purchase a few more postcards. Also bought a shirt – at more than double the price of the one I purchased in Bali. But at least this one had no raw edges.

Subway home. I gratefully sat in one of the “old people” seats on a crowded train; my feet were really sore from all that walking in new shoes. To bed early tonight.

Bali and Korea -- March 29, 2012

Spent the morning thinking about and preparing for my presentation tomorrow to Save the Children staff at a “Lunch and Learn” session, something they hold regularly once a month. I’m sure the program people thought having me come to speak was an easy way to fill a slot; hence the invitation. But I’m happy to do it. I’m not spending a lot of time preparing but did need to organize my thoughts a little and plan to speak to an audience who are not native English speakers. It takes planning to remember to speak slowly and use common words.

Left about 12:15 to meet HaeJung after her exercise at the club for a cup of coffee and more conversation. We stopped by the post office so I could buy postcard stamps. HaeJung, knowing how I take photographs of everything, prodded me to take a picture at the post office. So I did.

The clerk was bemused by this weird foreigner who wanted to take a picture of him at work.

InSook, InAe, and I had decided to go together to a movie. We decided to see The Vow since it was in English with Korean subtitles and sounded like an okay picture. Unfortunately, when we arrived at the theater, we learned that movie had ended yesterday. With a choice between an English-language action film (the advertising for which looked terrible) or Untouchable, a French film with Korean subtitles that InSook really wanted to see, obviously we picked the latter. I think it is a good movie; of course, I missed about 80% of the story and all of the subtlety. May have to see it with English subtitles to figure out the details of what happened.





We went to a CJ Foodworld for dinner – like a food court but containing a variety of nice sit-down restaurants. It’s a big business operation, apparently a part of Samsung.















We went to a noodle restaurant where one could see the kitchen preparation area.





I had a huge noodle and tofu soup, and we shared a plate of fried chicken – again far too much food. If it seems, from the number of "sitting at food table" pictures, that all I'm doing is eating, that's pretty close to correct!


While at dinner, InSook and I spoke about our planned trip to Gwangju on Saturday in order to attend a performance of a Twin Cities Korean dance group which had been invited to be part of a special ceremony opening a memorial to Korean War orphanages. I really wanted to see ChangMi in all their glory. But the reality of a 3½ hour bus ride each way in order to attend a performance of under 2 hours finally hit, and I concluded it would require too much time and too much energy. The good news was that I have gained almost a whole day with friends here in Seoul.

Through great effort, and by being physical and obnoxious, I grabbed the bill for dinner. Koreans are very hospitable and feel it necessary to host (and pay for) all visitors. The concept of “going dutch” is not one they recognize. Given that I invite myself to come to Korea and stay for free with InAe who insists on feeding me when we’re at home, I feel really guilty when my friends keep paying for meals and other treats when we’re out. So this time I was able to reciprocate a little.

We took the subway, InAe and I getting off and letting InSook go on to her stop. Then home and, eventually, to bed.

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Bali and Korea -- March 28, 2012

Am catching up on blogs. Today I uploaded the one for March 25 before heading off at 10:10 a.m. to meet HaeJung at her club. It’s an impressive health club of the glitzy variety (unlike my old and homey YWCA at home).

I exercised on the treadmill, using my brain as well as my body, as I had to convert kilometers into miles. I actually did a bit over 2 miles in 33 minutes before HaeJung told me it was time to go to her usual class.

HaeJung used the elliptical and also did weight work.

The class was exercise with emphasis on the core. Most of the exercises were the same or similar as ones used in my Forever Fit classes at the YWCA. There were six of us in the class. I was pleased that I held up pretty well.

Afterwards I returned home for shower and lunch before joining HaeJung and MinJu to observe MinJu at her riding lesson. There is a riding school at Seoul Forest; she rides for an hour once a week. She absolutely loves riding, being a typical 12-year-old girl. And she’s pretty good at it.




















After the lesson and some running around for the students after its completion, the three of us headed off for an early dinner at Samwon Garden Restaurant. It’s a large restaurant with a beautiful outdoor setting (with an outdoor eating area for when it's warm enough -- it isn't!) and a large tank with small tropical fish inside.

The restaurant specialty is bulgogi, cooked on a barbecue with hot coals in the middle of the table. And, of course, lots of side dishes. Quite tasty.

Was back at home and at my computer finishing blog catch-up at 6:45 p.m. Maybe I’ll stay current from now on – or maybe not.

Bali and Korea -- March 26 & 27, 2012

My friend InAe lives in one of the ubiquitous high rise apartment buildings south of the Han River. The complex is old, by Seoul standards, but is very nice. Having stayed with her on and off since my second visit to Korea in 1988, I have seen changes and improvements she has made to the unit, particularly after her daughter and son each married and moved out. I feel as if the computer/guest room is “mine!”

Building 63 of the Hyundai Apartments

On a visit in 2008 I needed a computer, and hers wasn’t working so she introduced me to the family living just underneath her because she knew that they had a computer and spoke English since the family had lived in the U.S. for several years while the husband was at university. Their then 8-year old daughter was pretty fluent in English because she’d been in nursery school/kindergarten in the States. From that time on HaeJung and her daughter MinJu (now 12) and I became good friends. I saw a lot of them when I was here for three months in 2009.

HaeJung’s family lives on the first floor (closed curtains) while InAe lives on the second (laundry visible).

At 9 a.m. on the 26th as I was hauling myself out of bed, InAe arrived back home (I didn’t realize she was gone) with her “helper,” a woman who comes several times a month, primarily to cook but also to do laundry. InAe then left to go to a reunion of her Ehwa High School choir, and I enjoyed the smells of good cooking all morning.



When InAe returned she began assisting with the food preparation process which went on until 6 p.m. Food was refrigerated and frozen and will be available for several weeks of meals.





After MinJu returned from school (6th grade), I went downstairs to visit them. I was absolutely amazed when I saw them. MinJu had grown a lot, not really unexpected between the ages of 9 and 12, but still surprising. Even more of a shock was HaeJung, who has lost a lot of weight and gotten an incredibly cute haircut. She looks great!!! The contrast is clear from a comparison of this picture from 2009 and one taken today. She is legitimately proud of her accomplishment. It took a lot of effort on her part.
















Since none of us could figure out how to hook up my computer to InAe’s internet link, HaeJung suggested I piggy-back on her WiFi signal. Since their modem is underneath “my” room at InAe’s, the connection is very strong. So I was able to use the several blogs I’d already written in Word on my computer and the pictures I’d downloaded to get the blog updated.

As too often happens, there were hassles with blogspot moving pictures and changing typeface helter skelter. But I did get some postings done successfully.

On Tuesday, March 27, I joined HaeJung to attend her 9 a.m. dance/aerobic class. It was fun, but those young women move energetically and fast! They use the same routines every day (HaeJung faithfully goes Monday through Friday every week) so move smoothly along, not really needing a leader. I was often several paces behind, moving left when everyone else was going right and thrusting my arms firmly in the air as all the others had them behind their backs! And, as the hour went on, the dances were faster making my confusion greater. But I kept moving and did get my heart rate up, the primary goal for me. From the camera angle you can note my location -- firmly at the back of the room, trying to stay out of everyone's way! This ain't your St. Paul YWCA Forever Fit class. . . !

HaeJung then went on to her gym to do some further exercise and take another class. I declined, instead heading for a coffee shop and buying a croissant!

Later in the afternoon HaeJung and MinJu went with me (actually I went with them) to the Hanullim Drum store. This is where I purchased my buk (Korean drum) in 2005. I wanted a nicer case for carrying it and knew Hanullim had them. Unfortunately, they’d moved since 2005, and I wasn’t sure how to find the store. HaeJung researched it and got us there directly and easily. I made my purchase and a couple for members of my drumming group.

This is the store and the person who waited on me and gave me a 2,000 won discount (so she said; don’t know why).

We returned by subway stopping at the food area of the Hyundai Department Store to purchase a variety of goodies for supper. We had a feast

and then I returned upstairs where InAe had come back from an emergency stint of caring for a sick granddaughter. Listened to MPR News on my computer and headed for bed at 10:45.

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Bali and Korea -- March 25, 2012

Final (and random) thoughts about Bali

It’s an interesting place to visit; I wouldn’t want to live here. Too hot, too humid. That leads to everything aging fast. It’s hard to tell new buildings from old. Monte’s friend Shirley noted that she had to wage a constant battle against mildew, and the mosquito population appears to exceed that of Minnesota, some carrying malaria or dengue fever. I really hate the treatment of animals; seeing all the emaciated dogs and cats was painful, Close to 100% of the male population smokes so the smell of cigarettes is everywhere; first time I’ve been in a restaurant and smelled smoke in years. Incense is also all-pervasive. Many visitors would find that acceptable or like it; I don’t. I don’t understand how the physically handicapped or even the old or infirm get around. Curbs are very high, and sidewalks are quite narrow and poorly maintained; stairs are everywhere, usually with no alternative.

However, the scenery is gorgeous. All that rain does make things lushly green. The sea is beautiful, and, Bali being an island, there’s a lot of seashore to enjoy. There are also mountains, well high hills, which make for a variety of terrain. The people we met seemed to be quite pleasant and very accommodating. The culture is interesting although exposure to Nyepi is at the far end of my comfort level with different.

I am very happy I had this extended stay but don’t plan to move my retirement location.


Now for Korea. . . .

The flight to Korea was less miserable than many. Korean Air has a bit more leg room, the plane wasn’t totally full (although the seat next to me was occupied), and, given the departure time of 4 a.m., lights were quickly dimmed and shades drawn. So I did get a little sleep.

My friends had given me directions on the airport bus number and door location so I was able quickly to be on my way to Apkujong, the area south of the Han River where they live. I had telephoned from the airport so my friend and host InAe met the bus, and together we pulled my luggage to her apartment building. I have been and stayed here so many times that I felt as if I were returning home!

InSook, InAe’s sister and my Save the Children-Korea friend, came over at 3. We discussed some activities and my schedule and then went to a nearby rice restaurant for dinner. InSook went directly to her home from the restaurant, and InAe and I returned home where I did some unpacking while listening to news on MPR over my computer. President Obama and I are both in Seoul at the moment, but the details of my visit are not being broadcast!

I will blog as I can from Korea (since MPR isn’t covering me), but I’m sure there will be less information (and what there is may well be less interesting) than the recent posts from Bali. My primary purpose in visiting Korea is to see friends. So there won’t be as much in the way of sights and photos as there was in Bali. If you really want to see pictures of Korea and get lots (more than you need) of information about living in Korea, look at the blog I wrote three years ago while living here for three months: http://koreaadventure.blogspot.com

But keep watching here to find out what is currently going on -- if you're interested.

Monday, March 26, 2012

Bali and Korea -- March 24, 2012

Another morning, another sunrise. . . . Early to bed and rise is not my normal timing. This one was at 6:45, a little later than yesterday.

Another delicious breakfast of fresh fruit and black rice pudding; that is good stuff. Went across the road and did some snorkeling for 45 minutes or so. I love seeing the colorful fish normally one sees only in aquariums. Before I do more snorkeling, however, (and I would like to do so) I think I’ll try to get a lesson. It seems easy, and is – lie on the water and breathe through the apparatus, but I get water in the back of my throat, most annoying, I don’t seem to be able to clear it, and the salt water burns. Despite that problem, I did enjoy the experience. After returning the flippers I had rented, went back to the hotel.

Since I was already in my swimming suit and wet, I decided to use the pool to try to get a little exercise. Other than climbing the many steps that are everywhere in Bali (for example, 67 steps from my room to the dining room and another 21 from there to the road), I haven’t gotten much exercise. However, I have been eating, so. . . . The swimming was quite enjoyable; one is in the midst of foliage and can see the ocean.

Showered and got my stuff organized and packed for a 12:30 scheduled departure. Before leaving I went across to the beach hoping to get a picture of all the activity that had been going on while I was snorkeling. There were several scuba diving boats just off the shore and two land-based scuba training sessions. There were also three or four snorkelers in the water, and a few people on shore. Unfortunately, by the time I returned for the picture, all had left, and the beach looked as deserted as it had on Nyepi. Apparently most water activities are scheduled for the morning when sunshine is more likely. (It had clouded over by noon.)

I also found this slightly derelict temple just up the road. Great setting. And it may or may not be unused. It’s sometimes hard to tell, given the effects of the climate and the nature of Hindu worship.



Ferdi was on time so we headed off for some sightseeing on the return trip.










We took an alternate route, a small road along the coast with many curves and ups and downs and bumps. The road is the white line about the bottom quarter of the picture.





I really enjoyed seeing the non-tourist countryside – many small villages with “regular” people about. The women were mostly working – washing clothes, minding children, tending small stores, carrying bundles. A few men were working on and with fishing nets as we drove along; apparently that’s the primary employment in the area. However, most of the men were gathered around socializing; there would be gatherings of 5 to 20 motorcycles with the men sitting around. I understand that job availabilty is a real problem, but it seems they could have done something more productive. . . . .

At one place we stopped to take in the view of the countryside and the sea, I found this interesting juxtaposition of traditional and modern: the old gods and the new.

We forded several streams where the water (it being rainy season) went across the road on the way to the sea. These rainy season streams are, according to Monte, the source of much of the garbage found on south Bali beaches.



Serendipitously we ran across a traditional weaving cooperative. This was one of the groups that Threads of Life which I had visited in Ubud is trying to encourage so that the traditional methods and patterns of the various parts of Indonesia are maintained.




The manager was very gracious and showed us around, telling us about growing both the cotton and the dye plants then using the traditional methods to spin, dye, and weave. It was fascinating. According to him, it is difficult to hang on financially, but they’re doing their best.





















The spinning wheel is the same style and material that has always been used in this region. So the product is authentic.







The material produced is absolutely gorgeous as this picture from the shop shows.

I coveted the blue piece next to the manager’s right ear. I don’t really have a need for it but would have purchased it anyway. However, I didn’t have the 1,000,000 rupiah it cost (about $100) in cash. A credit card would not work here!

At the textile location were several groups of women sitting companionably preparing temple offerings. There was a large group
















and a smaller one.



Both seemed to be doing the same thing. The result was a large quantity of offerings, pieces of dough colored orange with turmeric.





Nearby along the road we saw an after-Pengeruopuk ogoh-ogoh. At a minimum their heads are destroyed in the post-parade celebration as happened to this one.

The back road along the sea ended at Taman Ujung, the first water park built by the last Raja of Karngasem in 1919. It was used from 1921 as a retreat for the royal family and as a place to entertain visitors. It was shattered by an earthquake in 1976 and not fully restored and reopened until 2004. As one crossed over the bridge to enter Taman Ujung, below were rice fields and some other crop which apparently grows in water.

Bulai Kambang (floating pavilion) was used for meeting and serving refreshment to special guests.

Up the many stairs (I declined the opportunity) is located Balai Kapal, a main gate to the Taman Ujung from the sea side. From this location the Raja/King could look out to the sea and monitor what ships were going through the Lombok strait thus combining the pleasure of good scenery with the business of tracking what ships should be paying taxes.




The King even had a special building for meditation and yoga, the Balai Bundar.








The primary building of Taman Ujung is the Balai Gili where the King and his family would stay. There were living, bedroom and dining rooms (I don’t know where the cooking was done). Now it’s filled with old pictures of the royal family.




Here I am at the end of one of the bridges which leads to the Balai Gili.

While we were there, several large groups of motorcyclists roared into the parking area. Apparently Saturday is the day motorcyclists go out touring en masse. This group rode Harley Davidsons which means the members have money since that brand of motorcycle is very expensive in Bali. A few of the members carried flags denoting their club. They marched up the steps to have a group photo shot.

We continued on the main road back to the south beach area stopping at Kusumba because I wanted to see the sea salt production. I had seen at a distance the large drying beds along the Adriatic in Croatia and wanted to see the process in Bali. It was very different.



The water is placed into these containers










and underneath the salt is produced as the water evaporates.









There is some further processing inside before the final product, which Ferdi is examining, emerges.

Because of the rain, no salt was actually being produced at the moment, but the manager was happy to explain the process and show us around. He had been so gracious I wanted to purchase something but didn’t want/need a kilogram of sea salt. He put a small quantity into a plastic bag for which I paid 5,000 rupiah (50 cents). When one considers what sea salt sells for at the coop. . . !

This was our last stop as we headed back to Seninyak, running into a bit of traffic as we got closer so I didn’t reach the Kusuma Hotel until 5:15 p.m. That was just in time to have an early dinner with Helen and Monte and return to my room to pack for the plane to Korea. Completed that, went to bed at 9:30, to sleep about 10:30, and rose at midnight. A very short night. After showering and trying to wake up, I awaited Ferdi who arrived at 1:30 a.m. to take me to the airport for a 345 a.m. Korean Air flight to Seoul. No traffic so made it in plenty of time to sit and wait.

Goodbye, Bali.