Was at least able to utilize my back patio, doing computer stuff (WiFi extends to the room), enjoying the sound and sight of water sliding over the Buddha’s face on my own private water feature.
Before starting today’s sightseeing, a little information about the city of Ubud:
The name comes from the Balinese word ubad (medicine) because of the healing properties of plants growing nearby. Blessed with a picturesque location that inspired the arts, the village became the adopted home of Western artists like Walter Spies and Rudolf Bonner in the 1920s. During the 1930s they, with a local Balinese artist, founded an artists’ association which inspired a renaissance, transforming the sleepy village of Ubud into a center of artistic activity. It remains that today, although is also being transformed into a commercialized tourist area too much like the southwest coast around Kuta.
After a leisurely breakfast Helen and I headed off for our “walk around the rice fields.” We began by walking up the street (alley/path) in front of the Villa Lady Bamboo. There were stores and houses along the way, most of which had the traditional offering to the gods placed in front of them; this is done each morning, mostly by the women of the household. These offerings were also seen in the Kuta/Legian/Seminyak area, but they are more prevalent and more elaborate here in Ubud where the religion is more central to daily life. A couple of examples:
Because they are put in the street, they get stepped on and run over, sometimes almost immediately after being set out. But the merit is in preparing and placing the offering, not in what happens once that is done.
We were directed to a short cut which caused us to go a bit “through” the rice fields, rather than only on the path around them, but that added interest – a new perspective and the sight of a small group of ducks that we disturbed and sent scurrying back into the wet and protection of the rice. There were some interesting houses in the middle of the rice fields; one looked more traditional, one definitely a modern creation.
The walk was supposed to lead past an organic coffee shop, but I think we got off the prescribed path at some point because we never saw the shop and the final part of the “trail” looked like we were on private property. But we still ended up where we were supposed to – on the main street of Ubud. After a stop for some much-needed cool refreshment, Helen and I parted company.
I went to the Museum Puri Lukisan, a museum of modern-traditional Balinese art. The art was created from pre-WWII to the present but is grounded in traditional styles. The museum was opened in 1956 and renovated in the mid-1990s. There are several buildings in the complex surrounding a lotus pond and an impressive banyan tree. The entry is almost temple-like.
I really liked some of the art. This painting by Wayan Bendi in 1991 is quite large, probably 5’ x 6’ and filled with figures in a traditional Balinese style. Then there’s a helicopter. . . .
I also liked much of the wood carving. Garuda eating a snake was a frequent subject.
There was an exhibition of children’s drawings, “We Are All One,” created to support the victims of the Japanese tsunami. It had been displayed in several places where collections of funds were taken. I liked some of the pictures. The one on the left was by an American child, the one on the right by a Balinese. Unfortunately, because of the glass covering, the photos show some reflection, but they are charming.
At 12:45 began the walk back to the Villa Lady Bamboo stopping for lunch at a little restaurant along a stream, accessed from the main street by a bridge walkway.
After lunch I returned to the hotel, shopping along the way for a cloth bag to replace the one I purchased in Bali in 1988. It now is worn and has holes so is no longer much use as an emergency back-up second bag for traveling when purchases may exceed the space in the primary suitcase. Arrived at the hotel to find Helen there, enjoying a cooling foot bath in the pool.
At 3 p.m. our driver Made arrived, and we began an indirect route back to Seninyak, doing some touring along the way. We saw interesting rice fields, from those just planted to those getting ready to harvest. According to Made three rice crops and one of something else, like peanuts, can be grown every year.
Our first stop was at the Pura Taman Ayun at Mengwi. It was built in the 18th century by a king of Mengwi as a royal family temple. It is surrounded by a moat and has several soaring meru (pagodas). Because only worshippers are allowed inside, we didn’t need a sash/sarong but could only see it from outside the surrounding walls. That did, however, provide a good overview. This temple is a place to worship the gods of other sacred sites, with individual shrines to the mountain deities of Batukauy, Agung, and Batur as well as to the resident god of nearby Pura Sada temple (the deified spirit of Ratu Sakti Jayengrat [Powerful World Conquering Lord]), whose identity still remains uncertain. Important kings of Mengwi are also venerated here.
Almost as interesting as the temple buildings was this spider with a very impressive web.
After viewing the temple, using the restroom facilities, and purchasing snacks, we continued the indirect route home by heading west to the sea and Pura Tanah Lot where we arrived a little before 5 p.m. This is obviously a major tourist destination as the crowds proved. It is particularly busy as sunset approaches since the setting sun behind this island temple is a popular Bali image. We had already decided we wanted to avoid the post-sunset departure traffic so would not be staying for sunset. It was cloudy anyway so questionable as to how much one would see. . . .
The founding of Pura Tanah Lot is attributed to a 16th century high priest who fled to Bali from Java. Attracted by a light emanating from a point on the west coast, he stopped and meditated. He attracted followers which caused jealousy from a local leader. So the priest, Danghyang Niratha, moved his place of meditation to the sea giving it the name Temple of the Land in the Sea. He tossed his sashes into the waves where they became sea snakes and guard the temple.
There are other temples in the immediate area like this one, creating an interesting temple compound.
Pura Batu Bolong (Temple of the Perforated Stone) is the most interesting of those other temples as it sits on a rocky outcropping with waves pounding through a large opening below. The waves in this area were quite impressive, surging in with energy and noise. It probably was high tide, adding to the drama.
Despite the heavy coastal traffic as we left Tanah Lot we arrived back at our hotel at 6:30. Because of lack of sleep last night and today’s heavy touring activities, I was exhausted. Declined the opportunity to join Monte and Helen for a late dinner and New Orleans jazz in favor of an early meal and a 9 p.m. bedtime.
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